Have noticed that there is a post in for sale regarding these gears,I have a 2001 M2 and wonder if ther is a problem with the oil pump drive on these engines, mine has only covered around 3,000 miles but obviously I dont want to risk a major blow up. if anyone can enlighten me I would be very grateful

Hello, yes you'll be ok for another 500 hundred miles at least

I've done mine this winter on my 98 S1 with 12500 miles showing and you can see the wear on one side of the gear more than the other side. Whilst the teeth weren't thin enough to snap off and wreak havoc i wouldn't have like to have risked taking it to 20,000 miles without doing the job

Found this interesting thread at BadWeb

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/m ... 1425421936

Looks good one way...

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08 Specialized Langster

Thanks for all the replies, is there a uprated gear and where can these be purchased, what sort of price are they?

I always use the seller american-torque on eBay for all of the upgrades I've bought for my X1. The guys there are really helpful and are happy to do a deal on multi part orders etc.

If you do contact them then tell them that Tom from London with the X1 says hello.

My baby below. Has carbon tank lowers now though and is also currently going through a 10k service with Maz.

[img]http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/12/83d307afff0a04d764c0f0e69d7567a3.jpg[/img]

Thanks for all the info, much appreciated, is this fault common with all years or just prior to a certain year?

And on another topic what engine oil does everyone use, recomend and think is best, for engine,gearbox and transmission. I am just about to do a service and have purchased some V torque oil specialy recomended for V twins? In my ducati's I use a fully synthetic as they have dry clutches, I also use this on my RSV Colin Edwards and that has a wet clutch. according to the Buell owners handbook Diesel engine oil can be used, not done this or am sure I would want to so advice from you knowledgeable ones out there is most welcome.
many thanks

If you do a search for Lucky Hands Gear you will find a wealth of info on the preferred gear to change to.

There appears to be lots of cases of failure that have been catastrophic in terms of engines lunching. There are lots of theories on why but the key issue is that the stock (pre-06) gears are sintered by manufacture and are not particularly hard. In 2006 Buell introduced a 'bronze' gear (beryllium copper) which was more durable but they still wear.

The Lucky Hands gear is much harder than the stock gear and reports (on the German Buell forum) say that they wear significantly less than that the 'bronze' gear. They are also approx half the price of the 'bronze' one.

You can get them from Lucky Hands directly but previously I have bought them in loads of ten, relieved a discount and shared the postage between all gears...

Let me know if you want one, if you look in the for sale section you will see what they cost last time around.

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08 Specialized Langster

"My baby below. Has carbon tank lowers now though and is also currently going through a 10k service with Maz.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03 ... 7567a3.jpg"

I like that a lot, very tasteful

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Today my pet mouse Elvis died ..................He was caught in a trap
There are two types of people in this world, those that can extrapolate

Thank you. I've had it about 14 years now and it only has about 8500 on the clock. It's always been a second/ third bike, but I just couldn't ever bring myself to sell it![img]http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/12/9fefaa7c894dbff544411303be74134b.jpg[/img][img]http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/12/8a4f519a12bcdfd46270e7eab55c0ce1.jpg[/img][img]http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/12/d2e77163b8cf2521648a6759943daddb.jpg[/img]

I have been posting elsewhere I started thinking my alternator magnets were the source of noise. taken past three weeks to glue them back in clean everything and rebuild with new clutch seals etc.
On reassembly still as noisy. I felt like maybe the hydraulic push rod lifters weren't priming. I checked the oil the level was fine but i topped it up some more. looking in the tank I couldn't see any flow in the oil. the engine is hot but the oil is cool.
I unscrewed the oil filter and a cup full of oil fell out. With engine running no more oil is coming out.
It it a pretty safe bet that at 32,000 miles on a 2001 X1 my Oil pump gear has given up?

There's every posibility of that - take a look at it
My mate had his oil pump drive gear shear off on his '47 Knucklehead (same set up as on a Buell) and he managed to nurse it home 50 miles, stopping every few miles) with no damage. You MAY be lucky

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If your dreams don't scare you, they are not big enough.

It's not the lack of oil pressure that causes damage, it's all the debris from the drive gear

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

I have the pump out now. Its jammed up with sharp spiky bits of metal. The drive gear has rounded off a bit and looking up into the cam box I can see that the drive gear is no longer fit for purpose.

How far do I need to go looking for more bits?
I know that im going to have to open the cam housing to replace the rotten gear.

Is a second oil filter up stream of the pump worthwhile to protect the oil pump in future?
I gather any rubbish in the oil tank is pumped into the filter so that the oil pump is potentially always being fed dirty oil.

Thanks to great advice from the membership of UKBEG I have now ridden the X1 20 miles to work and back twice. First time in five weeks.
Quick recap. First off I thought the problem was in the primary case where I found a smashed bit of alternator magnet. So everything in there has been dismantled and cleaned as well as taking opportunity to replace the clutch pack. I put it all together and took it for a ride, sounded horibly noisy I found the oil pump had jammed up.
I have now fitted a new Lucky Hands oil pump gear, revised model oil pump now 26487-90A (was 26487-98), new cam cover oil seals and cover gasket.
I have fished around with a magnet on a stick trying to find more broken gear teeth.
I cannot see how the broken gear teeth made the journey from the end of the crank shaft into the pump. As I was taking it all apart some of the teeth were lying in the void where the pump housing fits through the gear case. That appears to be a dead end. So I am guessing the other teeth were suspended in the oil flow that made its way into the pump? As far as I can see that is fed using suction from the crankcase sump. is that right?
Thinking more about this I guess even though the pump looked stuffed with smashed gear teeth it only took one strand to actually jam the pump. That is the bits had been building up for some time before the actual catastrophic event.
I have a low cost flushing oil in there at the moment and planning to take the pump out again and change the oil again at the weekend to check for bits.
It is very tempting to fit a piece of wire mesh as a strainer within the oil pump gasket could that be a good idea?