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 Post subject: 10A 125V Fuse wanted.
PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 11:36 
I am trying to source a 10A 125V fuse 6mm x 30mm (1/4" x 13/8"). I've tried all over, can I find one anywhere, no! Can anyone help please? I've tried all the obvious places, Black Bear, Maplins, Halfords etc etc but no joy. I bet someone has a box of them somewhere which have lain untouched in a drawer for years. In hope, John.


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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 16:21 
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Have you tried RS Components?
They have a huge selection of 6.3 x 32 mm fuses....

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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 18:24 
Yes, phoned them earlier this morning. They could not help. But thanks for the suggestion.


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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 18:34 
125 volts ? What is it for ?


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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 19:04 
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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 21:37 
On my XB12Ss there is a power socket on the left side of the bike between seat and frame (standard bike type of small square connector block with locking clip) which can be used to drawer power from the battery or conversely, charge the battery in situ, which is what I want to do. I accidentally blew the fuse (standard glass 'cassette' type) between the block and the battery, didn't do any damage and the bike runs fine. The fuse I want is a direct replacement for the one that blew. Black Bear tell me this is not a Buell item and I have no reason to dispute this plus it is not shown on the wiring diagram in the workshop manual. However, it seems one heck of a coincidence that Trevors' XB12Ss has exactly the same power socket even though his is an 09 model and mine an 06. I have for now used a 10A 250V.


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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 21:45 
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Why not use a 12V fuse sized for the application?

What does this connection look like?

Most Buells came with a connection for an Optimate:

Image

This takes a normal automotive bladed fuse.

The plug is the same as Tamiya radio controlled batteries:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-R-C-7-2v-T ... 4d06f52437

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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 21:47 
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Oy, you said you were going out :!: lOl

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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 21:49 
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I went round Daywalker's place, back now... :D

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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 21:57 
Yes Pash, this is exactly the type of connector and rubber cover. It may or may not be for an Optimate, you know best, on mine the fuse holder is round. I only want to replace like with like, didn't forsee these problems getting one. Can you see any reason why I ought not to use the 10A 250V fuse I have substituted for now? Thanks, John.


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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 22:04 
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:headbang:

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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2013 23:32 
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Maz wrote:
:headbang:



I can just hear that Voddy being poured into a glass lOl

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PostPosted: 22 Feb 2013 03:24 
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proff. patpending
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Cos a fuse is there for protection. I am no electrical genius but a fuse blows as a result of heat melting the thin piece of wire. The heat comes from the power dissipated. Power = Volts x Amps, so it will take 1.25kW to blow this fuse, or the equivalent of a 100A fuse at 12V. Someone will be along in a minute to correct my understanding.

A 100A is huge.

What are you trying to power? How much current will it need?

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PostPosted: 22 Feb 2013 09:06 
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Or just cut the head off a 1/4 UNF bolt and whack that in...no more blowing fuses.
Don't try this at home, kids.

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PostPosted: 22 Feb 2013 12:16 
......getting somewhere. Thanks Pash it is an Optimate/Accumate fitting but the older type. Contacted the company and they say a 5 or 7.5 amp fuse would have been supplied but 10 amp is ok. Will now replace with a standard car fuse. Obviously somebody substituted a different rated one. Thanks for the suggestions.


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