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| refurb advice https://www.ukbeg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4433 |
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| Author: | gusm2 [ 16 Jan 2010 16:39 ] |
| Post subject: | refurb advice |
Hi folks, I am in the process of giving my bike a full rebuild I wonder if any one knows the best way of cleaning up a wiring loom as its currently off the bike while the frame is going for powdercoat, also when striping the rear wheel (they are getting done too ) I found the outer bearing on the pulley side had been spinning within the hub,  any thoughts on that issue would be appreciated too.
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| Author: | paulalig [ 16 Jan 2010 17:49 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
The exact same thing happened on my 99 M2 rear wheel and it was the same bearing - tried loctite bearing fit which didn't work so, as the inner bearing was OK I lived with it for 8 years and have just replaced the back wheel recently.  As for the loom - try a bucket of hot water and dishwasher detergent. Cleans most things up for me - if you let it soak for a bit.
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| Author: | thorkill the tall [ 16 Jan 2010 19:19 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
The only correct way to cure a wheel bearing that has become a loose fit in it's housing is the have the wheel machined and have an insert put in. Providing, of course, your machinist is happy with the amount of material he has to play with. In any case, a replacement rim would probably be more cost effective, unless you know a mate in the trade. What I have done on a wheel of my own was to 'peen' the rim's bearing face with a sharp punch and fit the bearing using stud and bearing seal. This proved to be very effective, but it was on a bike with just over half the power of a standard Buell. |
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| Author: | Adam [ 16 Jan 2010 19:23 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
I've never really thought about keying the bearing face before using 'Bearing Fit'. Seems like a good idea, after all there's nowt to loose. Top tip 
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| Author: | THE FLYING DUCHMAN [ 16 Jan 2010 23:21 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
gusm2 wrote: Hi folks, I am in the process of giving my bike a full rebuild I wonder if any one knows the best way of cleaning up a wiring loom as its currently off the bike while the frame is going for powdercoat, also when striping the rear wheel (they are getting done too ) I found the , any thoughts on that issue would be appreciated too.Quote: outer bearing on the pulley side had been spinning within the hub O-err. Your alloy wheel hub is worn. I have had this with one of my bikes and most of the time you need a new wheel rim. A hard one to get around. Best of luck. |
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| Author: | gusm2 [ 17 Jan 2010 07:51 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
Thanks chaps
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| Author: | milkster [ 17 Jan 2010 16:30 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
hi i`ve found the best thing for cleaning the wiring loom is duck oil and clean cloth will remove most dirt and grime and dose`nt harm the insulation at all..as for the rear wheel sounds like it needs to be resleeved and have the new sleeve shrunk fit.. |
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| Author: | mojomick [ 18 Jan 2010 02:42 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
I don't think that there is enough meat on the hub to sleeve it. |
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| Author: | THE FLYING DUCHMAN [ 18 Jan 2010 22:33 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
One of the main problems, on old bikes, is that with time the wiring goes downhill big time and causes many a problem. If your loom is very old IE stiff/hard wires, corrosion, etc I would replace or re-build it. Just taking off the loom can cause breaks in the wires of the loom. If the loom does look ok - clean it and replace any damaged ends. One tip is to make sure that the wire, to these ends, is clean copper and not black. If it is black you need to strip back the wire until it is clean copper and replace the end. I myself would crimp and solder the end then use heatshrink tubing on top. As far as the hub goes. I have tried many things in the past - IE shims, glue, filler, etc and nothing works for long. The main problem is that the moving bearing causes uneven wear and stress in the hub. This means that you cant, even if you can get one, use an over sized bearing without machining the hub to size. You could have the hub built up and machined to size but that would cost some. IMO you need a new rim. I myself would not trust anything else. |
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| Author: | Motorrad [ 18 Jan 2010 23:16 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
Just wondering, if anyone in need of a new rim wouldn't be wist to investigate a 2010 xb rim, with the newest bearing change. I don't suppose the 2010 bikes that exist out there have been ridden enough to know whether the new bearings are any better than the old type, though. |
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| Author: | bueller ball breaker [ 19 Jan 2010 08:11 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
What about the bearings that have a little locating pin in them to stop them spinning like in my LC main bearings? If it's just the outer bearing that spins ,couldn't these be pressed in from the side and make a little nic in the wheel itself. |
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| Author: | pash [ 19 Jan 2010 08:54 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
I bought a YPVS off a guy that didn't know why it was not running, I found the crank case halves were not sealed cos the pins were not in their locating holes... |
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| Author: | Adam [ 19 Jan 2010 17:14 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
BSA A7/10's had a peg to stop the timing side main bearing bush spinning. The problem was, it didn't. My crank seized solid on my Rocket Goldie replica when I was WFO and was my first serious bike related visit to hospital  I got pins fitted in me then  Got a new bottom end and replaced the bush with a needle roller. |
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| Author: | laverda [ 19 Jan 2010 21:11 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: refurb advice |
Adam wrote: Got a new bottom end and replaced the bush with a needle roller. Amazing what these surgeons can do these days 
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