Hi everyone,

So my Xb12s is going. 😢

Looking at the 1125CR
I know about the stator problems on later bikes.
Any solutions that work?

Also any other buying advice welcome.
Some say the 2010 my is better due to some upgrades, others 2008 is better??

I've searched for a buying guide on here, but not found anything definitive.

Thanks for the help...

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Buy a Honda

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Dusty 001

If you insist on buying a CR.
Buy one that's been modded already with receipts from a reputable firm to prove it. It's just a lot less hassle.
Buy one private, it's worth the wait & you should get a better idea of it's history & a chance to suss out the previous owner. It'll also be cheaper.
Be aware, they can still go wrong even after mods have been done. Osteveo may be able to shed some more light on this.
Be careful with low mileage models (under 6000) these are usually the ones that are available in shops and in the main do not have the mods done.
2008 models (blue frame) didn't have the stator problem but the ECM & general running take a bit of sorting unless someone's already sorted it out.
Good luck with your search for a CR.

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Ride Safe & Stay between the hedgerows.

The 1125CR was only available from 2009 onwards so you won't see any blue frame 08 models.

Essential mod is an Oberon clutch slave cylinder http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/acatalog/Buell_Clutch_Slave_Cylinders.html. A simple mod but almost essential so, if it hasn't been done, it's a sign of a not very well loved bike.

Alternators burning out were also a very common issue and the best solution is a drilled rotor. I bought one from EBR back in the day then had an engineer copy it so others could have their standard rotor modified.

Mufflers rust but can be refinished with BBQ paint and it's worth fitting turnout end caps to the stock muffler to prevent condensation from the exhaust being blown straight at your rear brake caliper.

2010 models have three bearing rear wheels but there aren't many of those about.

Steve

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Back on the road again!

Yeah sorry,
Thanks for clarifying that Steve.
I should've just said Black frame models r or Cr usually have the stator problems.

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Ride Safe & Stay between the hedgerows.

Thanks all for the above advice.

I know they have issues, but will persevere. Don't mind upgrading and modifying.

Should I really keep the Xb12s instead. Mmmmmmm

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My 2010CR, bought new, had the clutch slave cylinder leak at about 3000 miles and was fixed under warranty with a Buell one. It has over 18ooo miles on it and has been fine since. The Alternator and Voltage Regulator gave issues until sorted and have been fine since. Once sorted these are great bikes. I have 4 x V twins (3 Buells and a KTM) and the CR is the nicest engined one. The exhaust can be dumped and a nice, light stainless one by APH fitted saving lots of weight but adding lots of noise.
Totally a Marmite bike, If you like the looks and get the right one you should love it. I prefer the flat bar version to the Ace bar one for looks and riding position

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I'm a Hornithologist, I get excited by exotic birds.........

Thank you deepsix,
It's reassuring you've clocked up so many miles.

What did you do with the alternator and regulator to get them sorted...?
👍

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I would have a lot more miles on it if I didn't work at sea and have other bikes too.

The Alternator mods were the drillings and new windings. The VR was changed to a Compufire one after the others failed. Failed because of the overcharging. The VR is also positioned in a cooler position under the seat cowl.

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I'm a Hornithologist, I get excited by exotic birds.........

Thanks for the advice. Will bear this in mind. Its planned to be a long term bike, so fingers crossed.

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NO RETREAT NO SURRENDER

Hiya,
I bought my 09 CR and it already had the rotor drilled and stator rewound but after 4k miles the stator burnt again.....I had the stator rewound and replaced the stock shunt reg/rectifier with a series RR from the US and mounted it under the number plate for cooling.The series RR switches differently to the shunt and prevents the stator running at 100% all the time.....wired the RR direct to the stator removing a troublesome connector.It's now been fine for two years with great charging voltage from idle and a much cooler RR. The original mosfet RR ran too hot to touch sometimes and we all know that cant be good for an electrical item....😃 I would imagine any CR offered for sale now has had the rotor mod done already.....good luck in your search!

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Caution: I run with scissors.

ohstevio

Thanks for the advice.
That's a great help

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