Nothing so sinister TTT.
Pash started the "How To" section and at the time it was decided that additional posts or replies should be made in the Chat or Technical section, to keep the "How To" section uncluttered. I had quite a few replies removed. Some stayed.

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I started out with nothing and still got most of it left.

Right my picture whores. Its been another two long days in the garage. Last night until 11:30, and tonight until 10. Managed to get out just in time to watch the MotoGP practice session on Eurosport!

So. I've got a bit of a problem actually that I could do some advice with. My lifters aren't playing ball. I can't torque down the rocker blocks because the lifters seem to have oil in them and aren't bleeding down. I made the mistake of dipping the bottom of the pushrods in oil before inserting them into the tubes. That was yesterday! The lifters seem to have sucked up the oil and expanded and I cannot torque the heads down (I don't want to risk it anyways....)

So... even with the cams out the rocker blocks still don't go down enough. Currently there is a 2-3mm gap when I tighten the bolts until the play between rockers and pushrods is gone. So, what do I do? Wait another 24 hours???

P.S. before everyone asks the bleeding obvious: Yes, the pushrods are the same and in their original location. Valves, cams and valve springs are all the same as before. In fact, NOTHING has changed....

No cams!!


Gap between rocker block and head:


This is how far I had gotten, but I removed the cam cover again to pull the cams and give the lifter a chance the bleed down.

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Illegitimi non carborundum

.....how can the lifters bleed down without the cams fitted and valve springs exerting pressure on them

Make sure the lifters are on the backs of the cams ie. near as damn it TDC firing stoke (leave the piston down the bore a tad) and just pull/torque the rockers down.
DO NOT turn the engine for half hourish and watch the valves slowly close via the exhaust port as the lifters bleed.

.......are you sure you should be doing this sort of work

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

.....is that a standard front motor mount I see before me .......think you need to give Spondon 440 a shout

Why cut your camcase down and then route the oil lines under the motor ??????????????

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Thanks for that Maz. I didn't want to torque the rockers down because of scare stories of people bending their pushrods. I even heard that story from yourself, so don't turn around now and tell me 'are you sure you should be doing this sort of work...'

And the front engine mount is indeed original. I've already spent over £1000 on this bike in the last 2 months, so I'm not inclined to change that hanger right now. I'll sort it out later. Together with the gearbox bearings you advised I should change. I'm sorry, but I only have so much money, and stuff will have to wait for a bit...

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Illegitimi non carborundum

I do hope you're not trying to imply that I've ever bent a valve or pushrod ?
My point was that I've been banging on about the proceedure for bleeding down lifters for years........think there's even a topic about it in the 'How to' section.

As it happens we are almost in sync ie. I'm building an engine at the moment.......it has been completely rebuilt incl. all crank and tranny bearings, new pushrod tubes, rings, honed cylinders, rebuilt heads, all new fasteners incl. cylinder studs and head nuts, 06 pump drive, billet front mount, cut down camcase, cases, cylinders and heads repainted, everything else polished, new exh. studs and stainless flanges, even with all the sundries like new oil lines, filter, plugs,oil switch, neutral switch etc. etc the parts come to well under a grand.

I just cant understand why you would go to all the trouble of pulling the motor, mounting it on a stand and then only do half a job for the sake of a few more quid spent on the right parts ie. if you're gonna do it, you may as well do it right 1st time

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

I'll swap you a Spondon mount for that Rizoma rear pulley...

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08 Specialized Langster

Listen Maz. I understand where you're coming from and why you say these things. Maybe I sometimes don't agree with 'the way' you say them, but I understand that you mean it well.

The problem I had with this build is twofold; time & money. Time, I don't have enough because I don't do this for a living. I've already had a bit of a row with Wieteke because I was spending toooo much time hunched over the oily bits in the garage, so I have to be realistic about what I can achieve in the time I have to hand. Secondly, money. I can only spend sooo much. And I'm quite fortunate that I just changed jobs and I earn well, and the company I work for is in no danger of going under, so I can throw money around. A lot of other people can't afford that. Even like that, I can only spend so much...

So yes, I agree that the 'perfect' course of action would be to do it all in one go. But be patient my little grumpy eagle, it'll all get done. I'll do the gearbox bearings and the oil lines and all that stuff over the next few months. Already been looking at nice stainless braided lines.

Now. Thanks for the 'courage' to torque down those lifters. It all worked fine (I just checked them after a couple of hours) And no, I missed that thread with the information on the lifter.

Later!

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Illegitimi non carborundum

DO NOT use SS oil lines

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

I might consider it if you threw in a standard pulley with it?

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Illegitimi non carborundum

Consider it done...

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08 Specialized Langster

Maz, sometimes I wish you wouldn't be so sparse with words. Care to elaborate why so I can learn something?

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Illegitimi non carborundum

P.S. another few piccies.

The thread on the clutch cable broke. Twas on its way out I spose cause I was being EXTRA carefull to granny it into the thread, because I've broken these before. No matter.. It had already made its mind up the little fecker. I've got another cable sleeve in the garage with a good thread on it. So I'll transfer the steel cable and braze a brass nipple onto the end, so I can feed it through.


Luckily I managed to get it out by jamming a small screwdriver into it and then rotating it out.


The good old piece of aluminium flat bar to lock the primary side so everything can be torqued. BRILLIANT invention!


Homemade clutch compressor. Works with a bit of threaded rod.


2 seconds, and voila! Time to put the clip back in.

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Illegitimi non carborundum

I've used ss Goodridge lines forever on all my auto projects .......so when I 1st built up my S1W it seemed like a good idea to continue the trend.
Experience, maturity, whatever, has now steered me away from this 'wisdom'......it was only habit and a love for this technology.......obviously the lines from the tank to the pump and the tank breather from camcase are under zero pressure and therefore dont need lines rated at mega PSI.......plus whichever way they're routed, should they contact anything painted or polished, they would soon destroy said surfaces.
I still use GR ss lines for the pressure side ie. pump to filter housing or oil cooler but for the others I either use Gates rubber or if I'm feeling posh/flush, I use GR push on (no clips required)rubber line with anodised forged fittings = very expensive.....I now have these on both my S1W and my X1

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

I was drooling over these in a catalogue the other day.

As for t'other comments - I came to the same conclusion having had all my Guzzis 100% s/s tubed (due to a nice man in Totnes giving me access to an offcuts bin whilst he built brake hoses for a Laverda) - It's like having a feckin set of files lying about. Never again. Even brake hoses I always cover with spiral wrap.

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Sept 2017. Email will find me.