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PostPosted: 02 Mar 2019 09:51 
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Posts: 1770
Current ride: Buell 1125R
Ohsteveo wrote:
"I'll be damned if my bike doesn't run like a Honda in town but screams like a F****n' Banshee burning in hell fire over 70mph. "
:rotfl: The stuff of dreams and an excellent description of the 1125 when it's running well!!!!
Like it....


You're very welcome to take it for a blast when we meet up in April Steve, I should've got rid of any niggles in the meantime and have it running 100% by then. :yup:

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PostPosted: 03 Mar 2019 15:38 
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Joined: 05 Mar 2018 00:09
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Current ride: 1125 CR, XT500, 750S
Location: Tiddly village near the throbbing metropolis of Rugby
Jazzbutcher wrote:
Ohsteveo wrote:
"I'll be damned if my bike doesn't run like a Honda in town but screams like a F****n' Banshee burning in hell fire over 70mph. "
:rotfl: The stuff of dreams and an excellent description of the 1125 when it's running well!!!!
Like it....


You're very welcome to take it for a blast when we meet up in April Steve, I should've got rid of any niggles in the meantime and have it running 100% by then. :yup:

:yup: :sun:

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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2019 07:47 
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Joined: 08 May 2009 13:13
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Current ride: XB9SX
Hi Paul, funny you should be thinking about ram air as l’ve recently been looking at the same thing with my Renault Clio. Wrong forum? lOl

Anyway, reading about ram air, l got the impression that the effect is less likely or important than getting a cooler denser air quality into the air box under it’s own will......if you get my drift.
The induction system will take what it needs, but will work better if the air is taken from a neutral point away from hot engines or even hot tarmac!

My Clio as it happens has it’s air intake pipe entry from a divided compartment from the engine bay behind the left headlamp. This chamber also holds the battery and horn, but has a deep well to the cars front undertray. The tray is fluted to bring in air, but l can see a way of possibly improving things. I already have a K&N fitted which does improve the running at speed. ;)

I can relocate the horn and earth strap to a bolt hole at the back of the chamber. Then the optional fog lamp / driving lamp hole in the front bumper, which is just blanked off on my model can be used as a more ‘positive ‘ intake. I got a Clio fog lamp holder from the breakers. If you remove the light unit, the plastic housing makes a handy intake funnel. I am making a grill for this which will be held inside the housing with filler to make a neater tube intake (no not another Venturi :hehe: ). Behind the funnel l plan to fit a plastic baffle (no not a speaker lOl ) to trap rainwater and force it to drop out the bottom (you should avoid forcing rainwater into the system as too much water injection can be bad for the engine) while the swirling air can make it’s way up to the air intake tube at the side of the chamber.

This should make the air being collected cooler and denser than the current arrangement, and it’s cost me £3 so far. So no great loss if it don’t work. ;)

I would look at the 1125 intake from the same perspective. Less ram, more locating cooler air. ;)


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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2019 07:59 
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Joined: 08 May 2009 13:13
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Current ride: XB9SX
Doh! I forgot to mention; my friends Triumph Rocket 3 has pathetic looking air intakes under the rear sides of the riders seat as standard, and these have to feed a 2.3 litre monster! Nice and far away from the engine though. ;)

You have the option of positive human exhaust gas injection though! :hehe:


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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2019 09:24 
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Joined: 01 Aug 2018 19:58
Posts: 1770
Current ride: Buell 1125R
Hi Edd,

Sounds good with the Clio, I'm with you on the denser colder air thing. The 1125 now has air feed from around the underside of the outer cover & also much more cooler air being pushed directly up a much wider snorkel with a basic swirl mech, which is posh for a slanted cut on whats left of the snorkel that protrudes into the air flow ha ha.
Without the ram air system this engine should breathe & run much free-er as long as the Oxygen sensors can adjust, if not I'll have to look at them next I guess, but in the meantime it runs fine in the garage up to working temp, ticks over very even & will take a fistful of revs with a nice clean bark.

Looking to get it taxed today & if the weather clears get it out for it's maiden voyage after the maintenance work which will be much more enlightening.

All the best Paul

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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2019 13:24 
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Current ride: XB9SX
A few years back :shock: l would notice how the running of my Buell XB was good between say 25 to 180 miles then went ‘off’ to a less happy mode!? Pash suggested to me that it was the air temp sender inside the air box getting slowly cooked through the day. I did a catalog and sure enough the air temp line on the graph jumped at the mileage points l had noted.

This seems to be a well understood failing with the XB as the plastic air box sits above rather hot running heads. I have seen cooling shield kits for this. Pash ordered some heat shield wrap and we lined the undersides of our air boxes. I even wrapped the underside of the sensor to insulate it from heat. This appears to have made my XB more consistent running. ;)


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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2019 13:25 
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Current ride: XB9SX
Data log not catalog! :roll:


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PostPosted: 05 Mar 2019 08:49 
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Current ride: Buell 1125R
edd wrote:
A few years back :shock: l would notice how the running of my Buell XB was good between say 25 to 180 miles then went ‘off’ to a less happy mode!? Pash suggested to me that it was the air temp sender inside the air box getting slowly cooked through the day. I did a catalog and sure enough the air temp line on the graph jumped at the mileage points l had noted.

This seems to be a well understood failing with the XB as the plastic air box sits above rather hot running heads. I have seen cooling shield kits for this. Pash ordered some heat shield wrap and we lined the undersides of our air boxes. I even wrapped the underside of the sensor to insulate it from heat. This appears to have made my XB more consistent running. ;)


Great idea, it is meant to be the outside air temp that the engine is breathing.
This 1125r was being fed air after it had been drawn through the coolant radiators which isn't exactly outside temp, more like engine temp. It's no wonder it was lumpy as banana custard at low revs.
I'm still locating the best position for mine as the wires are very short & it isn't very easy to move it anywhere.

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PostPosted: 07 Mar 2019 20:12 
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I've thought long and hard about this as others have suggested the same thing, but I'm not sure about actually placing the sensor 'outside' the air box (if that's what you mean?) as it is supposed to detect the temp of air actually going into the engine. If you put sensor outside it may give wrong indications to ECU as temp will be different from what the engine is breathing. Ask an expert! ;)


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PostPosted: 08 Mar 2019 00:42 
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Joined: 01 Aug 2018 19:58
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Current ride: Buell 1125R
edd wrote:
I've thought long and hard about this as others have suggested the same thing, but I'm not sure about actually placing the sensor 'outside' the air box (if that's what you mean?) as it is supposed to detect the temp of air actually going into the engine. If you put sensor outside it may give wrong indications to ECU as temp will be different from what the engine is breathing. Ask an expert! ;)


Yes I get that.
I'm thinking anywhere from the snorkel upwards will do for now as it's all the air box, although as far up the snorkel as it will reach is about all I can do with the length of cable, other than sticking it in fresh air. The only thing I can think with having the sensor like this is that when I'm stood in traffic, the snorkel may now become a chimney for the hot air off the heads.
If so, I'll remove the plastic from around the filler & stick some mesh in there. More to allow heat out than let air in.
The engine though will be breathing from mainly around the bottom of the air box outer cover. I'm also pretty sure the outside temp won't be that much different to what gets dragged under the outer air cover anyway.

I'm just working this as I go along & you're helping by making me think quite a bit Edd, thanks for that buddy.
It runs pretty cool up to 70 at the moment, I'll keep going with this for a bit until it runs without any problems, hoping it'll take week or so.
In plenty time for the Matlock Bath ride out.Yippee.
Any other suggestion or ideas welcome folks.

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PostPosted: 16 Mar 2019 11:14 
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Current ride: Buell 1125R
Hi Folks,

Just to finish this thread off.

The air temp sensor on my 1125r is now fixed in front of the horn in free flowing fresh air & this works a treat. It is no longer being fed hot air from the rear of the radiators or from the engine or exhaust whilst moving or standing in traffic and this seems to have solved my problems. l actually now understand this has been where most of the trouble with this 1125r's really shit running at low revs has been originating.

BUT HEY FOLKS, BETTER NOT TAKE MY WORD FOR THIS, I'VE ONLY BEEN AROUND THESE BUELL'S FOR LESS THAN A YEAR SO WHAT THE F**K WOULD I KNOW ABOUT SORTING THEM OUT?

All the best Paul.

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PostPosted: 17 Mar 2019 09:43 
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Current ride: 2001 X1//TRK 502x
Location: surrey
Now now Paul, don't get antagonistic, well done though.😊


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PostPosted: 05 May 2019 15:25 
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Joined: 08 May 2009 13:13
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Current ride: XB9SX
Not strictly Buell, but.....l have been making / adapting the fog lamp holder from a Clio into an air scoop for my cars induction ‘chamber’.

I had been stuck trying to find or cut out a grill mesh to stop birds (or small children lOl ) being inducted into my engine. As luck would have it someone dumped a large bird cage in an alleyway near to me. Like a super Womble, l quickly spotted that the cage bars and bracing was of the ideal gauge for a grill. Small tin snips easily cut out a circle of bars with a suitably positioned central brace. All l have to worry about now is a large angry parrot stalking the area looking for it’s cage! :hehe:

I fixed this into the rear of my fog light housing with body filler. Then l formed the correct inlet funnel shape inside the housing by glueing in cardboard. Over this went more layers of Isoponic? Filler. Much sanding, refilling, and yet more sanding it really looks the part. 8-)

As luck would have it, there is a surplus bracket extending behind the housing onto which l can bolt the air/rain baffle l talked about in my earlier post. The bolt on position for a baffle will also enable me to trial different angles of deflection for the airflow. ;)

After a finish sanding l will prime then coat the unit with satin black paint (left over from my recent Walker turntable refurb!). Then what larks? :D


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PostPosted: 05 May 2019 19:04 
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Joined: 01 Aug 2018 19:58
Posts: 1770
Current ride: Buell 1125R
edd wrote:
Not strictly Buell, but.....l have been making / adapting the fog lamp holder from a Clio into an air scoop for my cars induction ‘chamber’.

I had been stuck trying to find or cut out a grill mesh to stop birds (or small children lOl ) being inducted into my engine. As luck would have it someone dumped a large bird cage in an alleyway near to me. Like a super Womble, l quickly spotted that the cage bars and bracing was of the ideal gauge for a grill. Small tin snips easily cut out a circle of bars with a suitably positioned central brace. All l have to worry about now is a large angry parrot stalking the area looking for it’s cage! :hehe:

I fixed this into the rear of my fog light housing with body filler. Then l formed the correct inlet funnel shape inside the housing by glueing in cardboard. Over this went more layers of Isoponic? Filler. Much sanding, refilling, and yet more sanding it really looks the part. 8-)

As luck would have it, there is a surplus bracket extending behind the housing onto which l can bolt the air/rain baffle l talked about in my earlier post. The bolt on position for a baffle will also enable me to trial different angles of deflection for the airflow. ;)

After a finish sanding l will prime then coat the unit with satin black paint (left over from my recent Walker turntable refurb!). Then what larks? :D


Hi Edd,

We're talking about air flow here aren't we, doesn't really matter what engine it's on. That all sounds like it's going to plan with your Clio (lots of careful work no doubt) & I look forward to hearing how it goes with the baffle/deflector. Wouldn't mind a pic either?
Did you work out the correct shape as just that, nice smooth flow, or did you do maths re velocity & volume etc? Either way is fine with me as both can have vast improvements over standard.
I'm only commenting as I am in the process of re-working the ram air on my 1125r. I'll post some ideas asap, I'm doing the doc in word first, then pasting in. Always good to hear appropriate & valid reasoning from others I think.
Thanks Edd, really interesting stuff.

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PostPosted: 05 May 2019 21:12 
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Joined: 08 May 2009 13:13
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Current ride: XB9SX
No calcs Paul, l just wing it! lOl

Sadly I can’t post pics (a conflict with some account l never resolved) but l could email them to you if you want to pm your email. ;)


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