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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 12:31 am 
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As a newbie this is my first go at this bit of the site, you've been warned. I noticed that this job wasn't on there so here goes.

Sorry no pics too technical

The majority I learned from maz and pash.

Take out the pads.

Carefully remove the caliper...... its well tight. Two big allen bolts and the mudguard mount.

undo allen bolts on bottom of forks, then axle nut. MAKE SHURE FRONT OF BIKE IS WELL PROPPED ON STANDS OR JACK. slide out the axle and off with the wheel.

Get the wheel on the bench and carefully remove the bearing seals to protect them from the next bit.

With A blow torch give each of the rotor retaining allen bolts a good roasting, this melts the uber strong locktite they have on them, pointing the flame away from the bearings. get them well hot but not so hot that the bearing grease starts bubbling and smoking.

I found the best tool to undo them was a very short (about 10mm) 3/16 allen in a socket an impact drive can help, DONT USE CHEAP SHITTY ALLENS and make shure the hex recess is well clean.

Put the new rotor on concave side up and tighten up the new allen bolts to the specified toque, i put some blue lock tight on but not shure if this is needed.

if the spacers fall out the fat one goes on the disk side, this indicates worn bearings.

Put the wheel back on. Locate the speedo collar tang in the recess in the hub.
If fitting EBC pro lites and pads ( the muts nuts) you might have to grind the retaining clip a bit to stop it rubbing on the pads.

Its also well worth carfully widening the disk groove in the calliper with some gentle fileing so that the calliper goes back on easily without fouling the rims.

Tighten up the mounting bolts to correct torque ( i used some blue lock tite) and mark em with a paint line so you can tell if they've shifted'

Give it a spin while up in the air to check nothings rubbing. jobs a good un :yup:

Please edit / delete or add to this if i'm talking out my arse.

Thanks Richard Stone

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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 12:18 pm 
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I always remove the disc side bearing.
It's important to make sure both disc and mounting face on rim are clean and flat.

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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 12:35 pm 
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Well done Richard
that's pretty much a seal of approval from the Mazmeister :yup: :D

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 4:49 pm 
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ive just bought an ebc disc,it didnt come with any fastners will the origials work ?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 5:35 pm 
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muddyman wrote:
ive just bought an ebc disc,it didnt come with any fastners will the origials work ?


I don't think so. The OEM are countersunk, so you'll need some flat faced ones if your Prolite is the same as the one I fitted.
Always surprises me that an engineer like St Erik would use bolts in shear :?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 8:36 pm 
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There are two EBC Pro-Lite PNs, one for csk heads and one for dome heads...

Twill be obvious the one you have...

Bo!

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 8:39 pm 
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.......and whichever version you have, I would strongly advise you to use new fasteners.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 8:43 pm 
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thanks,i have the countersunk disc,anywhere i can get new fasteners online ? i wanna get it done asap,the disc on it at the mo rattles ALOT

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 10:01 pm 
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Bearing man etc will have suitable bolts. Get Grade 12 as a minimum. I like the black oxide finished ones, I'm no chemist but think you may get hydrogen embrittlement with a plating process :? (happy to be corrected by those who know about stuff like this)

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 1:03 am 
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For my S1W's Prolite, Maz recommended Buell XB rearrotor screws - they worked a treat for the Prolite, which needed round-head, not countersunk.

Quote:
However, here's a tip........XB rear rotor screws (CA0005.9A7) are shouldered and come in packs of six for a grand total of $12.

They're the same thread/length (5/16 x 7/8) as the $5 screw, they're patchlocked as well but are actually better due to the shoulder ;)

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