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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 1:09 pm 
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Location: Cofa's tree
Ymale wrote:
I paid £250 for a Mille engine and I bet the lads at Aprilia Perfomance Tamworth could throw it in your bike ...not much they can't do with these engines.

Yeah...who would ever think of putting a Rotax lump in a XB frame lOl

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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:49 pm 
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Current ride: XB 9 SX
Maz wrote:
Did you read this viewtopic.php?f=17&t=10#p348 ?......ie. throw the supplied shims in the bin.
Did you remove the spindle and copperslip it ?


Didn't read that one, read a few others though ;)

I tried the washer but it wouldn't go in. Didn't try to force it so used the shims.

Yeah, spindle removed, cleaned and refitted - in the absence of Lithium grease I used copperslip.

Do you think it would make sense to remove the spacer washers and fit something thinner as I've just over 1mm clearance on the exhaust bracket.


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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 12:33 am 
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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 12:58 am 
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Current ride: XB 9 SX
What? Leave the belt running off the back of the pulley?

I could space the pulley a bit more but it wont be enough to tuck it under the belt.


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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 8:32 am 
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proff. patpending
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regcheeseman1 wrote:
What? Leave the belt running off the back of the pulley?

I could space the pulley a bit more but it wont be enough to tuck it under the belt.

viewtopic.php?p=252575#p252575

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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 10:36 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 2:22 pm
Posts: 122
Current ride: XB 9 SX
A full bodykit turned up on ebay.

Expensive for 5 pieces of plastic but when I've seen just the flyscreen up for £150 I know how much Buell bits can cost.

Anyway, made a stupid offer (60% of the buy it now) and the seller accepted!

I was worried because he accepted it so readily I wondered if it might be a bit ropey as the ebay pictures weren't great.

Shouldn't have worried as it's mint. :)

Finally got shot of those airbrushed lightning bolts.

Image

Rubbish picture but you get the idea.

Not fitted the bellypan yet as the black centre panel needed repainting to remove the last of the lightning and stripes. Bit of a fight getting the seized bolts with mullered heads out but got there in the end by removing the stainless brackets and fighting it in the vice.


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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 11:25 pm 
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Posts: 122
Current ride: XB 9 SX
Used a different bike stand this time

Image

Taken the wheels off to get them powdercoated, and started to strip them down - front bearings were simple to pop out with usual hammer and drift method - 30 seconds and both were out.

The rear proved more tricky, the centre spacer doesn't move across enough to get a decent purchase on the bearing with the drift.

Welder to the rescue....

Image

Tapped out easy. :)

Buoyed by my success, decided to pull the exhaust off to get it polished - the studs and clamps looked like they may give me some hassle so I gave them a blast of my favourite anti seize.

Came to nothing as the first stud sheared off in the head. :headbang:

Damn, if it ain't broke.....

Now I have to shift the other one just so I can get access to it properly - that'll probably shear off as well. deep joy.


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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 11:29 pm 
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:roll: :headbang:

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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 7:02 pm 
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Location: Glossop in't th'hills
Should have got it up to Maz's, he's got a belting little induction heater that'll get your nuts glowing :o and off they pop. This could get very expensive if the drill wanders when you remove the broken stud. Much more expensive than a trip to Maz's to finish the job properly :idea:


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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 12:39 am 
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Current ride: XB 9 SX
hmmm a 500+ mile, ten hour round trip?

with no wheels attached.


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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 12:28 am 
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Posts: 122
Current ride: XB 9 SX
well, I've drilled the broken stud out absolutely bob-on, stepping up in drill size and now up to 6.5 which is the tapping drill for 5/16

I'm assuming the stud is 5/16" ??? Anyone? UNC? UNF? Impossible to tell from the rusted bits that snapped off

Still cant get the remains of the old stud out

Do I tap it at 5/16 or do I drill it up to 6.9mm (hopefully removing the old stud fragments) and tap it to M8 x 1.25


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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 7:09 am 
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proff. patpending
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Current ride: Victoria Sponge
Location: Bristol - Gateway to all things good
I've got a jig that I lent to Steve Calvert on FB, a 1/4 in drill located in the right place and the old thread came out like a spring...

The thread inside the head is 5/16 UNC. Hopefully you drilled at the right angle and it's not going to be on the piss.

My tip is to put it all back together with copa slipped 5/16 UNF k nuts and to remove and replace them (same nuts) every few years to ensure you don't break more studs.

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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 11:27 pm 
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Current ride: XB 9 SX
Cheers Pash, it aint coming out like a spring but the hole is spot on, you can see the thread form down the hole.

I've tried to get in there with a pick and it wont come out.

Just waiting for the studs and tap to turn up now...

I had a look for copper nuts, VW use them on header studs and they don't seize but couldn't find them in UNC.
So I'll be doing the copperslip and frequently nut twiddling method.

Now - how the fudge do you get to the studs on the rear pot, should I risk it....


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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 11:40 pm 
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98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR


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 Post subject: Re: My first buell
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 11:45 pm 
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Current ride: S1`s
Location: Llanelli South Wales
pash wrote:


My tip is to put it all back together with copa slipped 5/16 UNF k nuts and to remove and replace them (same nuts) every few years to ensure you don't break more studs.


k nuts, not copper nuts.


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