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 Post subject: Reverse brake bleeding
PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 2:34 pm 
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Would anybody care to recommend a tool to reverse bleed the front brake of my 1125R ? A lot of the stuff listed on Ebay are not true reverse bleeders but vacuum bleeders - I want something that will actually pump fluid in at the bleed nipple end and up into the reservoir as opposed to creating a vacuum to draw fluid through.

Read that it is worth trying to cure my pulsating front brake problem.

I do have a syringe and tube that I have used previously (on other bikes) but cannot find it now I want to use it. :headbang:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 4:00 pm 
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proff. patpending
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I think you will fix it by running the wheel round whilst applying emery paper to either side of the disc in the area where the pads bite.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 7:37 pm 
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I use one of these with brake fluid in it

http://www.screwfix.com/p/laser-oil-can ... tAodJkcACA


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 9:38 pm 
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pash wrote:
I think you will fix it by running the wheel round whilst applying emery paper to either side of the disc in the area where the pads bite.

This is an on-going problem that I've had for more than a year - it's lucky that I have a sympathetic MOT tester.

I have cleaned the disc as described with no improvement. Next I had the wheel checked for runout - it was within the service manual limits. The disc and the fittings were changed for new items, together with a caliper clean,fluid replacement and pad change. And still the damn thing still pulses :headbang:

And the MOT is due soon, I really don't want to push my luck with it any further.

But I am going to get the wheel checked again, last time I left it with a "friend" (I will use that term loosely) to do, so I didn't actually see it being checked so I'm beginning to have my doubts.

So the only other thing to do is replace the wheel bearings and spacer and reverse bleed the brake ...

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 9:44 pm 
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proff. patpending
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Worth trying.

I had the same on my black Uly. I took the disc off, cleaned all the mounting kit then ran the disc through my hands and emery paper.

It's all good now.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 9:47 am 
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It is said that the pulsing is caused by a build up pad material on the disc, this may be caused by holding the front brake on at junctions.
when I first got my Uly it would pulse under gentle braking , so I checked that the disc was able to move on its mounts and used scotch bright to clean the disc this made some improvement but the more I used the brake and the more aggressive I used it the better it got .others have chaged to a different manufacture of pads with simular results :idea:
Bleeding the brake conventional or reverse will only remove any trapped air , if the leaver feel solid no sponginess then no trapped air .

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 10:05 am 
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proff. patpending
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I'm with you Barney, however if SM has been told that reverse bleeding will fix it, however unlikely it may appear, best to eliminate it from the equation.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 10:49 am 
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Problem is that I am running out of options ...


... although I am still not convinced that the wheel is not the problem - the runout tolerances are rather small - not really a problem on normal discs that are bolted to the centre hub - but with a disc bolted to the rim, together with the condition of our roads I think that it is a recipe for disaster.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:11 am 
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Reverse bleeding recommended thread -

http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/B ... 0-later/2/

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:39 pm 
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proff. patpending
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Not read it but hopefully we can poo poo the suggestion through your investigations...

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 8:26 pm 
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sportster_mann wrote:
Problem is that I am running out of options ...


... although I am still not convinced that the wheel is not the problem - the runout tolerances are rather small - not really a problem on normal discs that are bolted to the centre hub - but with a disc bolted to the rim, together with the condition of our roads I think that it is a recipe for disaster.


please remember SM that the disc is NOT bolted to the rim it is a floating disc and at each bolt or fitment point there is about 1/4 inch or 6 mm movement

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 10:49 am 
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Try a different wheel complete with disc ;) ,it only needs to be fitted long enough to prove a point.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 6:41 pm 
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I've had this problem with Harley's they seem to be incapable of making a discs run concentric
with the wheel. You could run a clock on the disc to se if it is oscillating.

As the pads wear the problem gets worse.

My fix was to file a bit off (chamfer) the pads edge where it overlaps the edge of the disc runout.

Rim mounted disc would be towards the inside, axle mounted disc would be towards the outside.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:45 pm 
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pash wrote:
I think you will fix it by running the wheel round whilst applying emery paper to either side of the disc in the area where the pads bite.



Hi Nick

Which grit did you use?

Bloody brake giving me grief.

N


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:02 pm 
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proff. patpending
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180, 240, ??? It's stainless so you aren't going to damage the disc with emery paper...

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