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PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:24 am 
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OK…. Bike’s not charging so with some electrical tests I’ve discovered the stator is broken.

Replacement parts ordered and we’re ready to change it. This is going to involve opening up the primary cover – a part of the bike I’ve never been into yet.

Parts:
Stator
Primary Cover Gasket
Crankshaft Nut

Tools:
Sockets including a 1 3/8th socket with ½” drive.
T27 Torx bit for ratchet or T handled.
4” door hinge
Breaker bar
Loctite strong
Loctite threadlocker
A pin
Some plastic bags to put all the parts in. There’ll be a lot and you don’t want to lose them.

Instructions
Put bike in gear
Remove chin fairing
Remove gear shifter – undo bolt on clamp at top (4mm allen) and one through the pivot point (11mm)
Image
Remove clutch inspection cover – 3x T27 bolts
Slacken clutch. The adjuster is at the front of the engine near the regulator/rectifier. Pull the rubber boot out of the away. There’s a lock nut (14mm) you loosen then do the adjustments (13mm). Get loads of slack on the clutch cable - you can see it through the inspection cover.
Image
Un hook the clutch cable
Remove the nut on a spring and the clutch ramp/hook.
Image
Drain primary fluid out into a basin. The drain plug (16mm) is underneath.
Slacken off the primary tensioner. This is also underneath – threaded with a nut. Loosen the nut then slacken off the primary tensioner.
Time to remove the primary. There are many 3/16” allen head bolts. Don’t lose any!
Put it to one side. You can remove the clutch cable if you want to move the primary cover somewhere else.
Image
Back to the clutch side.
Use a screwdriver and loosen the screw/nut combo. It’s backwards – in fact everything on this shaft is threaded backwards (at least on the primary side).
Ping out the clip – preferably not into your eyes.
Remove the clutch bearing.
Image
You should see the clutch nut (30mm or 1 3/16”)
Ok, over to the crankshaft.
Jam the two sprockets with the 4” door hinge. Can be a little fiddly.
Image
Undo the crankshaft nut. This will be torqued very high. Use the 1 3/8” socket and a breaker bar with a piece of pole over it. Have a friend hold the bike so it doesn’t move. Push down. Hard! Torque on this should be 250 lb/ft so you can also do this with an impact gun thing, but you need a powerful one.
Undo clutch nut. It is left handed thread so turn clockwise.
Pull off the primary sprocket, chain and clutch as a unit.
Image
Go round to the other side of the bike. Remove the front sprocket cover. There are lots of electrical connectors. We’re looking for a square black one. One side comes through the engine, the other side goes to the reg/rec. Open it up. Should have three pins and a white bung in the 4th. We’re interested in the part that’s coming through the engine as it is attached to the stator at the other end.
Use a pin and pull out the orange ends of the connector. One is plastic, one is rubber. Then pull out the pins. Keep all the bits of the connector.
Back round to the left hand side of the bike. Undo the 4 torx screws holding the stator on.
Undo the little metal bit covering the wire.
The wires go into a bung on the inside of the primary. Pull it out, then pull the wires through.
Remove stator.

Halfway there!

Ok, putting it back together.

Put your new stator on and bolt it in.
Push the wires through the hole in the primary and through to the other side.
You need to get the bung in tight. Use silicone lubricant or if you don’t have that use a wee bit of transmission fluid. Run some round the edge of the bung with your finger and push it in.
Replace the metal plate that holds the stator wiring back – don’t want that caught in the chain.
OK, replace the primary drive unit as a single unit.
Lock the sprockets with the door hinge.
Get your NEW crankshaft nut and put loctite bearing retaining compound on it – 603. This isn’t the usual thread locker but is much more powerful.
OK, put the crankshaft nut back on. Tight. 250 ft/lbs. That’s someone holding the bike and you with a breaker bar and a scaffold pole over it. Once the pole starts bending it’s tight enough.
Replace the clutch nut – use the strong loctite again. Put the washer in with ‘out’ facing ‘out’. Doesn’t need to be on as tight, but still has to be pretty tight. I used the breaker bar. Remember this is left hand threaded so turn anti-clockwise to tighten.
Now the bearing bit and the adjustment screw (pointing out). It has tabs that fit into recesses.
Ok, replace the primary cover with a NEW gasket. You want to make sure it’s a metal one. A little fiddly – found it is best to put a couple of screws through and slot the gasket over them. Put threadlocker on these screws.
Hook up the clutch cable to the ramp/hook mechanism. The little couple should be inboard and the hook facing away from the clutch cable. Fit the coupler to the cable first. The hook/ramp bit has an aligning tab so it will only slot in one way.
Now thread the nut over the adjustment screw which should be sticking out. Do this til you can see the end of the screw and the nut locates into the hex cutout.
Use a screwdriver then your fingers and turn the clutch adjusting screw. Remember it is left handed threaded. The manual says “until it lightly bottoms”. I found that if you turn it with your fingertips you can feel it catch on the mechanism. Adjust to that point then turn back out ¼ - ½ a turn. Put in the nut with the spring on it. Again there is a hex locating thing so it’ll only go one way – you may need to turn the screw a little to get it in nice.
Now you need to adjust the cable. Pull the clutch lever in 3 times to settle the hook/ramp mechanism. Go back to the adjuster at the front of the bike. Tighten it up until there is 2mm of free play at the lever between the lever and the body of the clutch lever. Approx the width of a credit card.
Slide the rubber boot back up over it.
Replace the sump plug. If you don’t later you’ll pour a bottle of transmission fluid on your feet. Wonder how I know that?
Now we have to adjust the primary. Screw the adjuster in by hand til the locknut stops it against the bottom of the primary cover. The chain should have ½” of up.down adjustment. The primary inspection window is about 1”, so if you adjust it til it comes to the top of that you’re close. The chain has tight spots. You can find them by rotating the wheel with it in gear with the plugs out. I didn’t bother and finished adjusting this at the end as I was doing all this on the sidestand and taking the plugs out is a pain.
Pour in 1 bottle (1 quart) of primary fluid (Formula+).
Put the clutch inspection cover back on.
Reattach the gear shifter.
Start it up.
Check the clutch feels nice and re-adjust if required.
I ran the bike a few times and checked the primary adjustment each time. Not very scientific.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:10 pm 
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Couple of points.......

The fasteners you refer to as metric are actually imperial.
Clutch release adjustment screw is a RH thread.
Stator torx screws should be locktited.
Wiring bung should be sealed with silicon rtv and I always put some of the same around the wires under the cover plate.(stops them chaffing on the plates sharp edges)
Your clutch and primary chain adjustment procedures are incorrect......

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:13 pm 
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:19 pm 
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Listen to Maz guys, he's the man who knows.
Check up on the procedures I've got wrong before starting.

At the top where I wrote "Loctite Strong" I meant to put in Loctite Bearing Retaining Compound 603.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 4:20 pm 
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Nicely illustrated with photos :yup: I personally wouldn't use Threadlocker on the primary cover screws, imho, Coppaslip is best.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 10:29 pm 
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I broke a Breaker bar whilst trying to remove a compensating nut on a hardley, mind you i did have a scaffold pole on the end of it plus the primary locked and in gear and the missus applying the rear brake,rode it round the corner to me mates garage all exposed, (the primary that is) two blips on the air wrench done.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 3:36 am 
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And for the hinge in lieu of the "official" HD/Kent-Moore tool, be sure it's brass, not steel. Or a piece of aluminium flat stock. You want a metal that is softer than the bike parts, so it is damaged, not the teeth on the bike.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:43 am 
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How can one tell if the stator is fecked?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 11:18 am 
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Current ride: XB12R, FZS 600
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That's awfully clean gear oil you've got there, what sort is it? It looks like olive oil.

Nice pics btw, could have done with one of the connector you talk about though.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:49 pm 
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b16_4ndy wrote:
How can one tell if the stator is fecked?


It's a How To adventure...

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=146

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:42 pm 
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Current ride: XB12R, FZS 600
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Why am I hearing so much about the stator?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:54 pm 
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Needs more cowbell
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There is a clue in the title, Sherlock ..

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:02 am 
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Where does it say they have a 'time period' life rather than 'use life' in the title cheeky.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:03 am 
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Needs more cowbell
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You didn't mention that in your question

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 6:15 pm 
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Mine went after 6000 miles/2.5 years


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