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 Post subject: 07/57 Uly has a rattle
PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:26 am 
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Location: Worthing Sussex
Hi have a rattle at 20,000 rpm from, seems under the airbox any ideals? could it be a heatsheld or something like a bracket also dont think its machanical (internal) noise, its there either with the engine hot or cold

thanks

Allan


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:33 am 
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hartbeat wrote:
at 20,000 rpm
it`ll be your family jewels.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:05 pm 
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I suspect someone has swapped your engine for a 1966 Honda RC116 lump. Dont worry, you have another 2,500 rpm to the redline and several more gears to play with although bhp might be a tad down.
Oh yes, your bike might be worth a few quid more as well.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:08 pm 
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:hehe: :hehe: :hehe:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:26 pm 
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assuming you meant 2,000 : mine does something similar, from somewhere similar ( towards the steering head ) - sounds like synchronous vibration to me; i havent been concerned about it: being used to twins and singles, theres always something somewhere rattling in time to the engine.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 2:33 pm 
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sorry 2000rpm, if any help its a metallic sound


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:02 pm 
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Tis usually the horn rattling on the back of the flyscreen :idea:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:37 pm 
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No thought of that,sounds like exhust bracket but to high up,something comming undone?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:41 pm 
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Both my daughters had rattles when young and they turned out OK :yup:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:51 pm 
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you guys do make me smile but i do have this issue with the Uly shall have to take it to Shaws Harley which will cost :(


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 7:15 pm 
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found the rattle exhust manifold bolts worked lose have removed and waiting for new ones to arrive thought people might like to know the reason for the rattle


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 7:32 pm 
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Use some 5/16 UNF 'K' nuts on the studs, from Miragemotorsport on Eblag. No more loosey loosey ;)

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:38 pm 
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What's special about k nuts?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:40 pm 
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Aldi version of KP Nuts?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 7:24 am 
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yourguitarhero wrote:
What's special about k nuts?


The holes are not round, so they are self locking for high temperatures. Generally, the hex heads (or double hex heads) are smaller (for 5/16 UNF a HD exhaust nut has a 1/2 AF hex whereas a K nut has a 3/8 AF hex).

All jet engines are built with them cos you can't really afford for things to vibrate loose. The type used in high temperature areas are silver plated for corrosion resistance cos when the engine comes into the workshop, you want to be able to get it apart.

These double hex nuts work with a standard 3/8 AF 12 point socket.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Pack-5-5-16-UNF-A ... 1e62415bfb

Some more info I posted for our American cousins here:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/m ... 10312.html

Quote:
I use these, on a 1/4" extension, to tighten/loosen the nuts:

Image

And these (K Nuts) as the nuts as they are actually not round, but a curved triangle, making them self locking and resistant to vibration:

Image

The cool thing about these is that they are 3/8 AF rather than 1/2 AF meaning that you have more room for the socket...

The torque setting in the manual is 72-96 inch-lbs, which is very low. The result of putting too much torque on these nuts is to squash your exhaust gasket and give the gas a smaller hole to flow through, which of course will lose you power. The ideal torque is just enough to allow the header to seal on gasket.

The interesting thing about the studs is that they appear to be 5/16 UNF one end (the nut end) and 5/16 UNC on the head end. However... it is a variation of 5/16 UNC on the head end as although the major diameter and pitch are as you would expect, the minor diameter and thread angle are bigger. Don't know what I am talking about? Try running a nut down the coarse end... Anyway, as you have guessed, the large minor diameter interferes with the thread in the head to give the stud self locking properties...

And, finally, always use copa slip on the threads to give the nut the best chance of removal. The same goes for the stud when you replace it.


and

Quote:
Here is a photo of spanner (wrench) and nut. They are the same fitting...

Image Image Image

These are ovalised at the end rather than being triangulated (as the 6 sided ones are) and are silver plated as the silver acts as a high temperature dry lubricant...

http://www.ret-monitor.com/articles/1341/silver-pl ating-of-fasteners/

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