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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 6:58 pm 
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Needs more cowbell
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:clap: very nicely presented, thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:18 pm 
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Except that the following were omitted....
Front tie bar can be left in place.
Remove ignition coil and plug leads.
Disconnect all engine harness connectors, injector plugs etc.under airbox.
Disconnect fuel line.
Disconnect rear tie bar at frame.
Slacken rear engine mount through bolt.
Disconnect throttle cables.
Top tie bar only needs undoing at engine.
Remove LH riders footpeg bracket from frame.
Disconnect clutch cable from lever.
On 08>models the ign. pick up cables etc will need disconnecting.
I usually remove the front mudguard.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:25 pm 
Maz wrote:
Except that the following were omitted....
Front tie bar can be left in place.
Remove ignition coil and plug leads.
Disconnect all engine harness connectors, injector plugs etc.under airbox.
Disconnect fuel line.
Disconnect rear tie bar at frame.
Slacken rear engine mount through bolt.
Disconnect throttle cables.
Top tie bar only needs undoing at engine.
Remove LH riders footpeg bracket from frame.
Disconnect clutch cable from lever.
On 08>models the ign. pick up cables etc will need disconnecting.
I usually remove the front mudguard.


Thats probably why I was quoted so much from HD. The photos list what was actually done on my bike in the order it was done rather than "by the book", all without problems.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:33 pm 
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The above is by experience.....nowt to do with the book :roll:

08 throttle cables, coil etc. will not clear the wiring harness inside the frame.

How far did you lower the motor ?.......fuel line and engine harness etc. will not travel far without damage.

The reason I remove the front mudguard is that once lowered the front isolator almost touches it.

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00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:53 pm 
Maz wrote:
The above is by experience.....nowt to do with the book :roll:

08 throttle cables, coil etc. will not clear the wiring harness inside the frame.

How far did you lower the motor ?.......fuel line and engine harness etc. will not travel far without damage.

The reason I remove the front mudguard is that once lowered the front isolator almost touches it.


Can't beat experience thats for sure but there are always more ways to "skin a cat". I did it the way I have shown in the pictures, what can I say? Nice pictures though Maz hey?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:08 pm 
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So, you've done this job once......care to guess how many dozens of times I've done it ??
Everything I've listed above will add another 10 minutes to the job but will ensure that nothing gets damaged.
I will watch/wait for your posts of future issues you may have with your bike :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:44 pm 
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proff. patpending
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I thought it was a top write up :clap: . This is the kind of thing the How To section needs.

I agree with Maz's points (after all he has done it tons of times), and although you probably checked for any tightening of hoses and cables (mechanical and electrical) when you lowered the engine, you should include something to say that.

Next job is to know what to do with the initial engine rotation post (which interestingly did not provoke comment :o )...

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:08 pm 
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Maz wrote:
Disconnect all engine harness connectors, injector plugs etc.under airbox.
Disconnect fuel line.
Disconnect throttle cables.


I never disconnected these, but what I do instead is to pull out that single harness-clamp (or however these are named in english) in the middle at the front. The harness then follows the engine without any problems.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 12:08 am 
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Nice write with good pictures.

Have to say the bike looks brilliant with that exhaust, very nice bike all round.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 12:44 am 
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"Have to say the bike looks brilliant with that exhaust, very nice bike all round"

i'll second that!... :yup:

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 8:29 am 
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i got to admit its a great looking bike, also blackbird has put a black remus can on his and i reckon that would look even better with black pipes.

still love my orange Scg tho :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 8:34 am 
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Clear and concise with quality pictures. ( Now I presume edited with Maz's recommendations). Good job ph.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 10:25 am 
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I thought that was an excellent write up but didn't want to pollute the thread.

Interesting that there are 4, now 5 people who say that, even though your (now deleted) rant in your original thread said that no-one had said anything positive. If you feel that you need such validation, then congratulations and apologies to the admins who have had to keep the original thread clean.

My other comment is that I think it should be amended in line with Maz's suggestions, taking such criticism as constructive and an opportunity to learn from the experience of doing it more than once, rather than yet another chance to :dummy:

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 3:07 pm 
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proff. patpending
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I believe it has been amended now. If anyone feels the amendment is not clear enough, speak up.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 3:13 pm 
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Moderator (Ret.) D.S.O. and where's the bar
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Sorry if I polluted the thread - I didn't realise it was in the How To section :oooops:

Great job, anyway. 8-)

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