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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2010 19:41 
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proff. patpending
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Well, as a Channel 38 Mythbusters fan, I do like to dig into the detail...

Following on from this thread, I did some experiments in the garage with a 521 CRG lever I got off Mev for a H4H donation.

The 521 is supposed to fit an XB. Offered it up to the S1, and it depresses the piston by about 1mm (calibrated eye) in the unloaded position. Now remember, the XB lever on the S1 has about 1.5mm play (I like a bit of that in the right place - lets the piston come all the way out).

I then tried the 521 in the XB and it depressed the piston by about 4mm (I am rounding up 3.5mm here) in the unloaded position. :?

I then tried the XB lever on the XB and it depressed the piston by 1mm in the unloaded position. :shock:

Anybody else noticed this?

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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2010 23:43 
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:idea: I'm not fan of these overpriced replacement levers anyhow!


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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 06:59 
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Didn't do any measurements, but found, that even OEM levers are different. I replaced the MCs with some having an external container (Nissin too), and noticed that the levers, although similar, are not fully the same.

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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 08:48 
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paulalig wrote:
:idea: I'm not fan of these overpriced replacement levers anyhow!


Yeah, me neither, but when my bike gets used hard on track days, brake fluid boils, the lever pulls in to the bars, and the adjustment on the standard Buell levers is difficult to get to when you are concentrating at going round the circuit.

Of course I could go to a twin brake set up (to share the load) or try some of this...

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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 10:05 
pash wrote:
paulalig wrote:
:idea: I'm not fan of these overpriced replacement levers anyhow!


Yeah, me neither, but when my bike gets used hard on track days, brake fluid boils, the lever pulls in to the bars, and the adjustment on the standard Buell levers is difficult to get to when you are concentrating at going round the circuit.

Of course I could go to a twin brake set up (to share the load) or try some of this...

Ouch ! That's a bit pricey - shame that they don't sell it in smaller quantities.

Have you tried the next grade down ? A lot cheaper and still superior to the standard stuff - apparently.


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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 10:41 
Pash, have you considered fitting a race style front fender, like this ? think they're designed to put more airflow over the caliper to help cool it down.

EBR may well sell a front fender with a built in scoop for this purpose- but there's nothing on their website yet.


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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 10:59 
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There is also the fatter disc and the finned disc, but TBH I can't keep throwing money at it...

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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 11:41 
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Be very careful of a lever that does not have any free play ...............the last thing you want is the brake to lock on due to permanently having drag on it ;)

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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 12:15 
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kevmean wrote:
Be very careful of a lever that does not have any free play ...............the last thing you want is the brake to lock on due to permanently having drag on it ;)


And that, Kev, is why I posted. The stock XB lever is always on, with no free play. I was interested to see what other people had. What is your X1 like? And your CR?

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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 16:14 
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Not been out in the garage to check the X1 but the 1125 doesn't have any play ......hopefully it doesn't apply any pressure either .........but it is a reason to be very careful when using levers from different models.

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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 16:32 
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I'll save you the bother, the depression on the 1125 is about 1mm...

Course, you don't want so much play that the brake light flickers on and off...

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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 21:10 
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2010 1125's have a revised master cylinder.

There should be no play between the lever and piston BUT what is important when using aftermarket levers, is to check that the return port to the resevoir is open when the lever is released.......if it isn't then fluid is trapped in the line and can pump up/expand enough to hold the brake on, resulting in a very impressive stoppie/accident !

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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 21:27 
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:yt:

2010 have revised M/S seals, my X1 has no play, 1125 has too much.... oh and the SRF,not worth it, youll've warpped your disc before you boil the fluid ;)

A good quality super DOT 4 will do just as good...


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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 21:31 
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......or 5.1

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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2010 21:41 
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......or 5.1...... although on average super 4 has a higher boiling point, wet and dry,


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