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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:14 pm 
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Current ride: M2, Ducati m796
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I am thinking it is time to check and replace the crankshaft oil pump gear for the bronze replacement, the bike 2003 xb9, has done 26,000.

What parts are required in addition to the gear, rocker box gasket. I have the service manual, is the crankshaft locking plate essential.

Any helpful comments would be welcome. :hehe:

Thanks in advance

Martin


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:29 pm 
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I have just done my S1 and someone local to me is going to do their XB9...

Will do a How To when I get a few minutes...

This is what you will need though:

1 11124 OIL SEAL
2 16800-84A GASKET, ROCKER BOX
1 25353-00YB GASKET, GEARCASE COVER
1 26391-06 GEAR, OIL PUMP DRIVE

Basic instructions....

You will need to get access to the rocker covers, I guess on an XB this will mean rotating the engine (not for the S1 :lol: ). Take the exhaust headers off. Put the rear cylinder to TDC compression, whip off the rocker cover, then put the front cylinder at TDC compression, whip off that rocker cover, then drain the oil, take the timing trigger and rotor off, pull off the cam chest cover, put the cams back in if they have fallen out, lock the gears, undo the 15/16 AF nut with a deep socket, pull the cam drive gear out, then pull the oil pump drive gear out, make sure the woodruff key is still there, then slide the new gear in, put the cam drive gear back on and do the nut up with some loctite to the correct torque (check the manual). It is a good idea to change the seal behind the timing cover whilst you are there. Then cobble it all back together using new gaskets and stuff.

Adam's How To for cutting down you cam cover tells you what you need to do to remove the cam chest cover, worth reading that. I am also told that BadWeb has lots of people that have changed the gear....

Image Image Image Image Image

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:04 pm 
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Hi Pash

Thanks for the quick response.

How did you lock the gears? Have you got the locking plate?

Thanks again


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:50 pm 
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Just putting the bike in gear is enough to undo the nut.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:11 am 
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In regard to all that work required and that it's a 2003 model, I would pull the oil pump first to get a glance at the gear. Make sure to turn the engine and look at it from all sides. Many 2002 and 2003 models were eating up oil pump gears withing 10000 mls, so if your's still running with 30000 mls on it, chances are, there's no need at all to change it and that it might look untouched.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:05 am 
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:yt: totally agree with Gunter there. My X1 wasn't wearing the gear at all but a M2 engine that I had bought with 7000 miles was already half-way through it so its worth pulling the oil pump and checking before anything else. Remember, if you *do* pull the cam cover you will need to allow enough time for the hydraulic lifters to bleed off all the oil before you can re-assemble the rockers. The hydraulic lifters will expand and suck up all the oil left in the passages around them when you remove the rockers. This means that if you don't let them bleed down and put the rockers back on you will risk bending the pushrods or worse. When you're assembling it make sure that there is a little play between the top of the pushrods and the rocker arms so to make sure that the lifter have bled down. Not sure how long it takes. Does anyone know?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:16 am 
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If you follow the manual, you just tighten the rocker cover bolts a little at a time in the correct order and jobs a good-un. Then torque them up...

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 11:12 am 
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mich wrote:
When you're assembling it make sure that there is a little play between the top of the pushrods and the rocker arms so to make sure that the lifter have bled down. Not sure how long it takes. Does anyone know?

The last time it took about half an hour. But it was around midnight already and we had been a bit in a hurry then ... :mrgreen: I was told that when the rocker arms can be moved laterally the lifters have bled sufficiently.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:30 pm 
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Rocker assemblies MUST be fitted with the followers on the backs of the cams ie. piston at almost tdc on its firing stroke.
Once torqued, DO NOT turn the engine for at least 1/2 hour.......you can watch the exhaust valve reseat via its port, as you will have the headers removed at this stage.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:11 pm 
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Hi Chaps

Thanks for all the advice and photo's.

I will hopefully take the pump out over the weekend and will report on my findings.

cheers
Martin


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:27 pm 
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Best photo I could get.

Slight contact mark on side of gear on each tooth, otherwise looks in great condition, other side of tooth shows no wear either.

Just check every 10,000 miles?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:31 pm 
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oops!

Forgot to say, I turned engine over to check all round the gear, the marks were the same around the circumference of the gear.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:36 pm 
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Yep like you say just check again in another 10K
:yup:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 8:00 pm 
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I have a suspicion that undue wear on that pinion is caused by people not warming their motors properly (apart from sloppy matching and tolerances at the factory). At the very minimum, I consider at least 5 miles is needed before you spank the motor. I NEVER cane mine from cold in less than 10 miles.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:27 pm 
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:yt: ....these engines have no oil pressure relief valve.....08> do.

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