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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 8:41 pm 
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Current ride: Buell XB12 S
Location: Teesside
Evening All,

Any tips of removing frozen bolts on my XB12S?

I have rescued a neglected XB12S and I am in the process of restoring it.

I need to remove the swing arm brace to replaced the drive belt. The bolts won't come out. I have used the world's largest breaker bar. Several cans of WD40. Used so much force I have bent tools to extreme angles. But the bolts holding the swing arm brace in place won't budge.

I have removed the rear wheel. I come up against the same resistance with the bolts holding the brake rotar and sprocket in place.

I guess the next step in bolt removal is to apply heat?

Is the swing arm likely to be damaged if I apply heat to the area around the bolt to try and get it out?
The wheels require refurbing so I am not too bothered about cosmetic damage with those.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance,

Duke of Ted.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 9:01 pm 
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What is your location ?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 9:12 pm 
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Hi, okay so we have a few tricks on our boats for this sort of problem. The thing that may well be grabbing your bolt is aluminium oxide. This has a habit of expanding in the thread and hold on really fast to the bold inside. We found two ways to deal with this. One is heat, carefully applied to the bolt. Not just once but several times. Don't go mad with this method as the bits you are dealing with are ali and will lose their properties if you over do it and then need heat over the whole piece to anneal it afterwards.
Next is a mixture of hot water and baking soda applied several times. This is really what the the plating companies use to strip jobs that have gone mammaries up. (in some places) It will assist in dissolving the ali oxide that is grabbing you're bolts etc. Above all patience is needed as it has to dissolve the said crap around the tread.
Brut force normally ducks up the thread if the bolt holds.
So, heat, strong caustic soda and boiling water, plus a good penetrating oil or electrical contact cleaner.
It will come out, just how is the bit that matters.

Hope that is of some use. 40 years at sea with fkin ali :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 9:25 pm 
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Ahh, just having a beer with one of my crew (Engineer) and he said his polish mates use some sort of Cillit bang for heavy calcium / salty deposits works, could be "bang and your tread is gone" but he does say it needs soaking in it. Heat too but carefully.
Cheers
Taddy.
Wont be much use soon, time to leave. :!:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 10:45 am 
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Are Baking Soda (BiCarbonate food additive) and Caustic Soda (which eats Ali) the same thing?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 12:11 pm 
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Hi, yes they are pretty much. Its the ali oxide that it will attack, which is more probably than not source of your frustrations. A nice hot solution applied several times could work. Best of luck. :yup:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 12:14 pm 
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Its actually used in some cake recipes, :old: but that's another story. :rotfl:
Mr Pash will have some. :hehe: :hehe:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 12:18 pm 
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http://chemistry.stackexchange.com/ques ... aking-soda

So keep an eye on it. :!:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 12:19 pm 
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FllkuxXM6cE
Sodium Bicarb (baking soda) and sodium hydroxide are different things, please do not use caustic soda on your engine cases (see video), bicarb will give a mild solution that potentially could gently dissolve the oxide (not heard of this before). But don't use sodium hydroxide/ caustic soda !!
sorry tadpole

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Last edited by Graeme1203 on Thu Jan 26, 2017 12:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 12:24 pm 
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Graeme1203 wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FllkuxXM6cE
Sodium Bicarb (baking soda) and sodium hydroxide are different things, please do not use caustic soda on your engine cases (see video), bicarb will give a mild alkaline solution that potentially could gently dissolve the oxide (not heard of this before). But don't use sodium hydroxide/ caustic soda !!


Yes, that's what I thought. I know of some cases where folk have tried to clean aluminium 2 stroke stingers and they have quickly dissolved! I use bicarb for soda blasting.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:44 pm 
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Current ride: Buell XB12 S
Location: Teesside
Maz wrote:
What is your location ?


I'm based in Teesside, Maz.

Thanks for all your prompt and helpful replies!

I've mixed some boiling water and baking soda together (totally guessed the quantities) and poured it over the area around the bolts on the rear swing arm brace. Hopefully it'll find its way to the problem area and dissolved the aluminium oxide.

I'll keep applying it over the next couple of days.

For my second option, any advice on applying heat to the swing arm?

Cheers,

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 9:13 pm 
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Have you tried a (hammer type) impact driver? As you do the screws up they pull up against the threads. Any aluminium oxide and other corrosion builds up behind the threads. A bang with a hammer, ideally with an impact driver, disturbs this corrosion and with any luck the screw becomes free enough to undo...

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 9:24 pm 
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pash wrote:
Have you tried a (hammer type) impact driver?


Nope, I don't have one!

I have the biggest halfords socket set and about 12 imperial allen keys. That's about it!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 9:34 pm 
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DukeofTed wrote:
pash wrote:
Have you tried a (hammer type) impact driver?


Nope, I don't have one!

I have the biggest halfords socket set and about 12 imperial allen keys. That's about it!


Sweet... You could try giving them a bang on the head with a punch...

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 9:52 pm 
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I have an excellent tool made by Snap-On that adapts an air hammer to use special shallow impact sockets which are then turned by hand whilst the hammer does it's stuff......combined with my induction heater, there's nothing I cant shift :twisted:

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