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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 1:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 1:02 pm
Posts: 43
Current ride: 2009 1125R
Location: United Kingdom
After recent battery problems I bought a new battery and proceeded to fit it.
I lifted the seat and removed the seat cowl to find the badly burnt Deutch connector.
As per Maz's instructions, I double checked the stator output and resistance to ground on the stator phases and thankfully all good. I'm thinking that the oil jet rotor must have prevented the stator windings from cooking along with that plug.
With the new battery fitted today and checks done, no starting issues at all. It spun up really strong.
I've been advised to check ground cable and grease it up, so nearly sorted
Very relieved to be sure that no real damage done.
Mosfet VR ordered (Cheers Maz)
and while i was under the seat, I tidied up the wiring which was a Spaghetti, and with the HD fix removed from the bike there's a fair bit more room for a decent fuse.
Thanks for the support buddy
:worthy:
Here's one for the gallery


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 10:36 am 
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Joined: Mon May 10, 2010 8:55 pm
Posts: 40
Current ride: 1125r
Location: north northamptonshire
Is a Mosfet VR the best way to go,or is a series VR better?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 1:02 pm
Posts: 43
Current ride: 2009 1125R
Location: United Kingdom
My understanding of it is that the Mosfet VR is transistorized, and cuts the power feed to the battery (via the earth return presumably).
I think a shunt (OE) voltage regulator contains coil type resister, dumping excess current through a resister to earth and as a result, is a generator of heat without switching ability to reduce phase load.
From reading forums, the latter is the 'OE' equipment on my bike.
Hope there is someone to confirm, or correct my thinking.
"Is a Mosfet VR the best way to go,or is a series VR better?"
I have no idea .
Flippin love my 1125R, and wish i had Knowledge to contribute rather than that sad picture. But I suppose even that picture may help someone identify an issue.
I've no doubt the answer to your question will appear shortly
:askmaz:
Good blokes to keep you moving :sun:


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 5:43 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 1:02 pm
Posts: 43
Current ride: 2009 1125R
Location: United Kingdom
Much to the wife's discust, I gave up the opportunity of helping her in the garden on Sunday and went to "Play with my bike again"
Pulled out the old VR and found the Stator wires were burnt/oxidised beneath the insulation . I had to cut them back a bit to get wire good enough to make a solder join and with much wire brushing I managed reasonable job. I extended them by 5" then, made off the spade conector block (crimped and soldered).
The MOSFET fitted onto the same mount studs, but had to drop the tail base down and remove a small piece where it was striking the new VR to get it back up and shave a very small amount off of the VR square edge of the bottom right Finns (as mounted) to clearance it.
All shrink wrapped and tidy.
With the engine running at 1500 to 3000rpm I'm getting 13.9--14v constant.
I didn't charge the new battery prior to test, but it's now on the charger/optimiser.
I've seen posts somewhere stating outputs of 14.5v, and wonder why mine differs?
I'm happy with the output voltage, but curious to know if having a higher charge voltage is of benefit?
Just got to put the rest of it back together, tail lights, cowl, seat and auxiliaries.
Well relieved that it's all but back together.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 8:12 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 1:02 pm
Posts: 43
Current ride: 2009 1125R
Location: United Kingdom
I had a problem with the Mosfet r/r in Germany recently.
On the autobahn the display went out completely all but some straight line led's in the the places that should have been displaying information.
After about a minute it all came back. The symptom repeated itself and became more frequent to the point that it was occurring every ten minutes.
I was getting the engine management light, battery light and voltage was showing 15.9volts.
At first ,my response was to slow to 60mph and that allowed the battery voltage to drop.
It turned out to be heat build up in the regulator.
I mounted the regulator in its original slot, thinking that the improvement in its operation would overcome the poor position. . .wrong.
While riding i had the thought to move the position of my left leg to improve the air flow to the vent hole. The voltage quickly dropped and no further issues.
I monitored the voltage for the rest of the holiday, and if the voltage went beyond 14v (mine normally sits at 13.8v) i altered my leg position and the volts dropped quickly.
I will think on how to increase air flow as i would like to maintain its position
I'm now wondering if the overheat/mounting position of the reg/rectifier, may be a big part of all of the charge system issues(or all of it?)?
I would think that the battery or another part of the electrical system would fail at that voltage continually (if un checked), that's presuming the original regulator reacts the same way or maybe it reacts in a more harmful way and when cool remains functioning correctly


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 9:16 am 
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Joined: Wed May 06, 2009 6:18 pm
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Current ride: CB1300 & Z750R
Location: Esslingen/Neckar, Germany
Overvoltage seems almost always a problem with the stator wires or wiring harness. As far as I understood a broken wire or ground fault results in an overvoltage with the OEM rectifiers (and all others which work the same way). I had a two-wire stator (2008+ models) installed in my 2005 engine and the rectifier was hidden unter the firebolt's tail cover, so I would not assume, it needs a lot of air for cooling.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 3:18 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 1:02 pm
Posts: 43
Current ride: 2009 1125R
Location: United Kingdom
I would tend to agree and think in that way, if i had not seen the evidence on the cluster, and had not checked the bike prior to the ride.
Quiet literally, as soon as i moved my left leg out and into the air-stream which gave greater air flow to the rectifier, the voltage dropped to normal levels 13.6-13.8v.
Under normal ambient riding temperatures i had seen no issue before, and have had no issue since.
After the incident, I was obviously aware of the issue and during prolonged periods of hi speed autobahn riding, i was regularly (every 5-10 minutes) adjusting the position of my leg.
if i get a chance, I will re-run the test schedule this weekend, but i'm sure that riding conditions led to the working temperature of the rectifier being exceeded.
Infact i'm so confident that i was only going to look at improving air flow and not at the hardware.
But given your comments , a re-run of the stator test can't hurt and takes no time at all.
And that plug did suffer a fair amount of melt down.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 1:52 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:35 pm
Posts: 214
Current ride: Buell 1125R and M2
Location: Loughborough
Im afraid the fins are a give away and it needs to be in the air flow. Everything I read pointed to this being the preferred position.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/m ... 1398190490


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 3:32 pm 
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Current ride: 97 M2, 09 XT
Location: Sunny Suffolk
Don't know enough to go against the perceived wisdom, just feels wrong that if heat is the issue -putting it next to the exhaust is the answer. :couch:

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 12:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 2:22 pm
Posts: 122
Current ride: XB 9 SX
Graeme1203 wrote:
Don't know enough to go against the perceived wisdom, just feels wrong that if heat is the issue -putting it next to the exhaust is the answer. :couch:


I'd be inclined to agree with you, the radiated heat from that header will be intense, especially with no air flow - if it doesn't cook the reg it'll do the wiring no favours at all.
As for the reg, I've seen smaller units with little or no fins deal with much larger current delivery housed in tail units and under side panels with no issues.

Not to mention the salt spray and wet off the front wheel (where's the facepalm emoticon?)

Hiding it wouldn't look half as messy either.

Going through a few tech posts on here, seems like Erik should have sought a bit of advice when it came to the electrickery side of things.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 7:27 pm 
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regcheeseman1 wrote:
Graeme1203 wrote:
Don't know enough to go against the perceived wisdom, just feels wrong that if heat is the issue -putting it next to the exhaust is the answer. :couch:


I'd be inclined to agree with you, the radiated heat from that header will be intense, especially with no air flow - if it doesn't cook the reg it'll do the wiring no favours at all.
As for the reg, I've seen smaller units with little or no fins deal with much larger current delivery housed in tail units and under side panels with no issues.

Not to mention the salt spray and wet off the front wheel (where's the facepalm emoticon?)

Hiding it wouldn't look half as messy either.

Going through a few tech posts on here, seems like Erik should have sought a bit of advice when it came to the electrickery side of things.


I don't think you can lay the blame entirely at Eriks door, other Rotax engine bikes suffer from the same problems.

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