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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 5:33 pm 
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(Title sung in the style of Grease...)

Yes, I got codes, on a 2010 Uly (so dddfi-3 ECM). The bike starts, idles and runs OK, but above 3000 rpm on the motorway, after setting off from cold, the EML will come on after about 4-5 miles. Just running around the back lanes, not caning it, it does not come on, and if I drop to below 2500 on the motorway it will go out after a while. Back above 3000 rpm, and on it comes (after a short while...). It does seem to be temperature-related.

I thought the only code I had was 15 (IAT sensor), so I replaced the sensor (identical part, Jaguar part number; £5.41. I kid you not). No change.

I read the codes again; I have 15, 16, 33, 21, 17, 18 and 57, in that order, before the sequence repeats itself. Some of those I can't find, but those I can, all relate to voltage too low or high. I know b****r-all about AGM batteries like the one in the bike, but it has never been replaced according to the comprehensive maintenance history, and the bike has done only 4000 miles in the last three years. Could it be as simple as a dying battery?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 8:47 pm 
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Current ride: Buell X1 2001
Location: southampton
maybe , it wouldn't help TBH

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 9:33 pm 
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proff. patpending
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15, 16, 33, 21, 17, 18 and 57?

15 Intake air temperature sensor
16 Battery voltage
17
18
21 Interactive muffler control (12s only)
33 Fuel pump
57

I would check the grey connector on your ECM, is it broken, can you move it on the ECM with less effort than the black one?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 9:54 pm 
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Location: Manchester
What is your location ? :headbang:

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 10:39 pm 
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Thanks Pash, I'll check that connector; I dare say a quick squirt of contact cleaner wouldn't go amiss anyway.

Maz, I'm two hundred miles away. If I were close enough, I'd have been in touch by now to book it in!

TN


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 10:47 pm 
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Most peeps around here would say 200 miles is right on my doorstep :)

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Mithered ta death.
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96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 11:13 pm 
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My knees wouldn't; believe me, they wouldn't!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 11:47 pm 
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That's why we have A2B :idea:

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Mithered ta death.
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96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 8:50 am 
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YOU may have A2B; I haven't. I don't even know what it is...


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 9:09 am 
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Location: Telford
A2B
http://www.a2bmotorcyclemovers.co.uk/A2 ... lcome.html
Can be cheaper in the long run; get it fixed correctly first time, by someone that specializes in Buell’s :idea:

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 11:04 am 
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I may end up having to do just that, but I've been fixing bikes and cars for forty years. I can strip and rebuild an engine, clearances checked and fasteners correctly torqued, so I fancy I know one end of a spanner from the other; mechanical stuff isn't generally a problem.

I can use a multimeter, but I'm a mechanic, not a sparks; electronics isn't my forte and I lack the specialised knowledge of Buells, which is why I'm on here asking.

It may come to A2B, but it hasn't yet...


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 1:52 pm 
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proff. patpending
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Grey connector?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 2:29 pm 
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The battery is holding 12.7 volts after standing overnight. No resistance between the terminal posts and their connectors. After starting, it shows 14.3 volts at all revs from idle to 4000.

I'm just about to pull off the grey connector. I take it that it provides the power feed for all the suspect circuits; do they share a common earth?

The connector is undamaged and tight, but the sticker on the ECU seems very new, much more so than the others on the harness, so it looks as though the ECU has been replaced at some stage. I'll try the contact cleaner, then take the bike for a run and see what happens. Fingers crossed...


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 3:23 pm 
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proff. patpending
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viewtopic.php?f=8&t=21651

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 5:31 pm 
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Thanks for that; now I understand...

There's a chunk cut out of the seat pan to clear the connector, but I enlarged it a bit. Still no change. I tried riding sat on the pillion seat (weird; God knows what other drivers thought...) Still no change.

Then on the way back, 4000 rpm on the motorway - Sh1t! That sounds like a tractor. Double SH1T - it's ME!!

Tremendous blat-blat-blat, running very rough, and when I got it home, the front right corner of the seat cover was so hot it had melted. Something's leaking badly or blown at the rear header, I suspect, (possibly the O2 sensor?) and exhaust gases have been escaping.

Overheating wiring seems like a possible cause for the fault codes I've been getting, too. They haven't changed either.

Seems like this bike's trying to tell me something; possibly that I shouldn't have bought it...

I'll talk to the seller I bought it from, but I think I'm going to call B2B and get it up to Maz; as it was a commercial sale, I'll let the seller pay for the repairs.


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