The workshop manual doesn't have a procedure for just replacing the clutch cable. Instead it's documented as part of the procedure for removing the primary cover.

I'm guessing that the minimum required is:

1. Remove the cable from the lever.
2. Drain the oil
3. Remove the clutch inspection cover
4. Unhook the clutch cable (the clutch end not the lever end)
5. Unscrew/remove the cable and o-ring

Then do it all again in reverse:

6. Install the new cable (clutch end)
7. Hook the cable up
8. Re-fit clutch inspection cover
9. Add oil.
10. Attach cable to lever
11. Follow adjustment procedure in manual

If anyone's done this (someone must have!):

A. Does the oil have to be drained ? I'm guessing it does.
B. Do I need to replace the o-ring where the cable enters the primary cover ?
C. Do I need to replace the inspection cover gasket ?

Normally, I'd expect seals to need replacing but as the oil isn't under pressure, I'm not sure how necessary it is.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Steve

I'd say no to all three

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Wear the fox hat

Be VERY VERY VERY careful when screwing the new cable into the primary cover the threaded part of the cable is very fragile and very easily snapped

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2001 X1 2009 1125CR 2006 Uly X3 2010 Uly a fully Maz'd S1 and a 1991 RS1200 Westwind.

Thanks all for the advice.

What I found was:

1. You don't need to drain the oil but you will lose a little when the old cable comes out of the primary cover before you can get the new cable in. So, a little top up will probably be necessary.

2. It's not possible to remove the cable from the carrier (behind the clutch inspection cover on the primary cover) without removing the clutch outer ramp. It's easy enough - just remove the spring and lock nut, turn the adjuster screw clockwise until the hex nut comes out, and then carefully remove the outer ramp and carrier. Change the cable and then re-assemble. Tighten up the adjuster screw, back off a quarter turn and follow the instructions in the workshop manual for clutch assembly and adjustment (pull three times on the lever, etc.)

As kevmean says, the bolt that the cable passes through into the primary cover is easy to break, apparently, and must not be over tightened. Some of the posts that I found on other forums described the bolt as being made of peanut brittle. That helps give and idea of how careful to be! I also found a few reports of the bolt breaking on the first ride after changing the cable which may mean that it tightens up slightly when the engine is warm/hot. So, I'd suggest, don't over tighten it in the first place and then check it again when the engine is warm.

Now I should own up to why the cable needed replacing... I bought some cheap Chinese LSL style levers off EBay last year. They're very nice and a bargain (I thought) at £28 a pair.

I recently noticed that the clutch lever wasn't returning all the way so I thought it needed lubricating. When I removed the cable from the lever I found that 16 of the 20 strands of the cable were severed and only 4 strands were still attached to the nipple. When I looked inside the lever I could see where the cable had been rubbing against a ridge inside the lever. So, I've changed back to the stock levers.

On a positive note, Riders of Bristol took an order for a new clutch cable at 5:25pm on the Friday before the Bank Holiday (when they probably just wanted to shut up shop and go home), double checked the part number (because XB9S and XB9R use different cables), and gave me the UKBEG discount. The cable arrived in the post the following Friday. I think that's great service.

Steve

I forgot to say... The workshop manual says to put the bike on a rear wheel stand (i.e. paddock stand).

I didn't appreciate why until I went to check the primary oil level yesterday and found out the hard way that the oil level is above the level of the clutch inspection cover when the bike is on the side stand. Doh!

You want the bike level and upright to check the primary oil otherwise, if you have it on a paddock stand, it looks low...

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08 Specialized Langster

FFS......drain the oil and then pour in 1x bottle of Formula + (1x US quart or 1L as they are now) and it'll be spot on......why would you ever need to check the level unless you have a leak somewhere ?

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

In case you have a leak FFS!

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08 Specialized Langster

So sort the fuckin leak then .......why would you keep topping up the oil if you have an issue

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Cos you are on a tour and have no access to a workshop FFS!

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08 Specialized Langster

0.9 ltr fsf

The nut that locks the primary shoe can leak and lots of clutch cables sweat oil.

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The sound of a V-twin engine braking is music to my ears!!

The shoe leaks cos you have the nut the wrong way up FFS!

Fix the cable with heatshrink or self amalgamating tape...

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08 Specialized Langster

.......and

.....and you should be changing that oil every 2.5K anyway

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR