97M2 sounds ok at tickover/slow speed within few hundred yards gets rough starts missing like hell dies within a mile. Carb spotless now, had new plugs 200 miles ago splitfire. Any advice greatly appreciated.
Pete

sounds like fuel starvation, blocked tank breather?

And the old fave....Shit in the tank
How often do I do have to do that then

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Keep calm and call Batman

Fuel supply good let it run from drain for about a minute. Can only think of the coil but 200mile trip to get it checked.
Pete

Clutch and side stand switches disconnected?

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Keep calm and call Batman

About 10 years ago.
Pete

I had a bad misfire on my 2001 M2 which turned out to be due to one of the wires coming from the cam position sensor (and going to one of those deutsch connectors somewhere in the vicinity of the starter motor).

The wire's insulation had chafed against one of the engine cases and it was shorting out against it. Bit of insulation tape got me home...

I dunno if it's the same setup on a 97 M2 tho...?

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2001 M2
2001 XLH 883
2016 MT-03 660cc single

Does it restart reasonable or do you have to wait for it to cool down some?
The carb may be flooding the engine, maybe via a faulty or dirty needle valve. The floats could of perforated. If the pilot system is air controlled a foreign particle could be bloking the air jet in the bell mouth causing it to go way rich. Also the main jet system can have an air fed emulsion tube arrangment, it to could have its air jet bloked in the bell mouth. Had spiders in them before now!
The cold start system could be leaking or stuck on.

Sometimes nothing is obvious but old carbs and newer fuels don't mix and a service kit can be the only way forward to eliminate the carb from the enquiry.

HTH

N.

Fuel starvation would certainly produce similar symptoms. My classic way of getting them used to be to pinch the fuel breather pipe when putting my tank bag on.

Leaving the choke on can also produce similar symptoms - but with the obvious tell-tale sign of badly fouled plugs.

It could also be a thermally triggered HT failure. To check for that I'd look for a spark once the fault has occurred, e.g. by carrying a spare plug and swopping one of the HT leads onto it. The plug body will need to rest against a cylinder while you look for a spark.

If you can get access to any sort of test meter you should at least be able to check the coil for continuity across both primary and secondary and for good insulation between the primary and secondary.

Interestingly, a freind has just had his bike serviced and shortly after he gets a poor running fault.
Turns out it was the new NGK plugs!
Put old ones in and it runs fine!
Worth a try. He said the resistance was out on some of them.

N.