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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 5:22 pm 
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I'd rather race a Honda 90

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Adam wrote:
Mich, in the past I've used oversize rings and after gapping them, they've worked ok in undersize bores. Use the piston to get them 'square' before measuring at several points in the bore since it doesn't wear evenly. Obviously not ideal but on very old, obsolete motors, you sometimes have no choice. Should be plenty of places that stock rings for a Shovel though.


I know where there's some fork handles.....

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 5:46 pm 
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Moderator (Ret.) D.S.O. and where's the bar
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lOl

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:34 pm 
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Remember, Mich, if you do need to get your barrels honed or re-bored, avoid anywhere who reckon they can do it without using torque-plates. Additionally, Evo torque-plates do not fit shovel barrels.
Old shovel cylinders have been known to distort by .008" when not torqued up properly.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 4:23 am 
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Milf Hunter
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Spook wrote:
Image


Here's mine. Not moved on for 12 months, need to find time to get on it.

Mojo your wasting your time, you're far to old for a hardtail :D


Nice project Spook. :yup:
Probably 25% of my total mileage has been done on rigid framed bikes.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 6:19 am 
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proff. patpending
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Spook wrote:
Image


Here's mine. Not moved on for 12 months, need to find time to get on it.

Mojo your wasting your time, you're far to old for a hardtail :D


Those mugs need washing...

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 10:09 am 
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thorkill the tall wrote:
Remember, Mich, if you do need to get your barrels honed or re-bored, avoid anywhere who reckon they can do it without using torque-plates. Additionally, Evo torque-plates do not fit shovel barrels.
Old shovel cylinders have been known to distort by .008" when not torqued up properly.


Advise taken! :yup: My Buell heads and cylinders are currently with the chap over at http://www.powerglides.co.uk/. He seems extremely knowlegeable on the subject of Harley engines, including the old shovels, and I have quized him quite a lot about them. So depending how the work on the Buell bits turns out I'll probably take them down to him again. He seems to know what he is doing and doesn't mind spending 30mins+ on the phone going into detail about how and what he does to these engines. Proper old school kind of guy. :old:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 10:52 am 
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Location: Dorset
Image
this was mine,now sold to make way for the buell.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 12:20 am 
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Milf Hunter
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Current ride: '98 S1
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Mich, I've got a full gasket set for your Shovel. :yup:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:53 pm 
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Milf Hunter
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Current ride: '98 S1
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Stopped on after work tonight for an hour or so to give the outer gearbox cover a bit of a polish.

Before
Image

It didn't need too much work, just removing 15 years worth of light corrosion.

After
Image

I'm going to put it up in the mill and re-machine the counterbores to clean them up and also increase the diameter of the gear change spot-face, to allow greater clearance for the hand change lever that I'm going to make for it. I couldn't do it tonight, as someone left a job set up in the machine.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 2:19 pm 
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Current ride: XB9SX
.......to anyone who's interested......the saga of my exhaust pipe insert continues (what the f***'s he talkin about lOl ). Cutting and grinding by hand is hard and slow so took the plunge and bought a bench grinder over the weekend. £30 from Wicks would you believe? I believed it when I opened the box on Sunday; one of the screens was broken in 3, and one of the bolt holes for the work rest was oversized and threaded! :roll: More time lost cycling round to the local store again. The replacement was ok, but strangely not as smooth as the previous one. Oh well, at the price? :roll:

Anyway, first job has been an expansion test by placing pipe section on gas cooker for nearly an hour. The piece grew by 0.4-1.0% or v.little. The pipe is stamped with 'T6' whatever that means? Low expansion exhaust material? :?

Whatever, the tube has a longitudonal cut on the short inside length, so it can expand on its circumference inside the can (and there should still be some give in the can itself). The business end will rest on the curved pipe entry to the can. It'll still rattle some say....not if I shape it right! ;)

I will cut it to the final length when the exotic low end curves are finished.

It's a shame this bit will be invisible, so I must sus photoshop before it goes in place! ;) And my mates can all laugh if it runs like a pig? lOl


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 9:12 am 
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Pipe is actually ink marked with 'TM6' or maybe it's an 'N' 'Nnnnnnnn'! lOl


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:05 am 
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Milf Hunter
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Current ride: '98 S1
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Well, I've spent the last couple of weeks de seaming and polishing the three main gearbox castings to get them as good as I can. I've done a bit of googling to find out how to keep them this way, once the bike is assembled and on the road and it appears that applying pink Windowlene or Turtlewax will stop the casings from getting furred up. If anyone can confirm this, or give me any other advice, I'll be glad to hear it.
I decided to put the outer cover up in the mill to re-machine the counter bores for the fixing holes, as these were uneven, due to 60 years worth of over tightening bolts.
Image
I held it down on a plate in the vice and swapped the screws around to get to all the holes.
Image
I also increased the spotface area around the gearchange shaft, so as to give me more room to accommodate a hand change lever.
Image
That's the cover just about finished. I'll give it one more polish before applying the Windowlene/ Triplewax.
I stay on after work to do this, as it's lighter and warmer than the garage and I have the machines available.The trade off is that it's fucking cold riding home.

The plan for this week is to make the hand change lever.
I've got a lump of 12mm Ally, left over from a machine mod, so that's what it's going to be made from.
Image
This is roughly what it will look like. I'll blue up the plate and mark it out with Trammels/ dividers to get the exact shape, then drill it before bandsawing it out.
Image
I may have to put a "set" in it, if my knee gets in the way.
I've got to find a suitable knob for the top (it won't be an 8 ball) so that I can tap the top to suit, hopefully 8mm.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:32 am 
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Milf Hunter
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Current ride: '98 S1
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greasemonkey wrote:
mojomick wrote:
it appears that applying pink Windowlene or Turtlewax will stop the casings from getting furred up. If anyone can confirm this, or give me any other advice, I'll be glad to hear it.

autoglym resin polish Mick, 'tis what I use on Beasties wheels an' ally bits, can go for months with just a dust down and before I need to use autosol again :yup:


Cheers mate. :yup:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 1:52 pm 
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Current ride: Muffin 2001 X1
greasemonkey wrote:
mojomick wrote:
it appears that applying pink Windowlene or Turtlewax will stop the casings from getting furred up. If anyone can confirm this, or give me any other advice, I'll be glad to hear it.

autoglym resin polish Mick, 'tis what I use on Beasties wheels an' ally bits, can go for months with just a dust down and before I need to use autosol again :yup:


Don't forget ................Mick rides his bikes as well ;) lOl

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 3:50 pm 
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Current ride: Muffin 2001 X1
greasemonkey wrote:
and,,,errr,,,what is it you do with your X1 exactly ? lOl


Just giving it a well earned 50K rest while the Cr takes over for a while ;) lOl

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