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PostPosted: 10 Jul 2019 10:59 
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Joined: 01 Aug 2018 19:58
Posts: 1712
Current ride: Buell 1125R
Ok folks,
I've abandoned the velocity stack bit (purely the money aspect) for a while & now looking at the exhaust. (And avoiding doing the steering bearings).
I've re-sealed all the jointing on the pipes, Remus have a weird alloy spacer/washer to seal the jointing onto the headers that leaves a gap, I then have to knock little alloy wedges in to seal them. I've done a much better job this time & got the pipes fully fitted into their respective sleeves. Something I was guilty of not doing properly first time as it was a proper faff with those alloy seals, and, I just wanted to get the exhaust on & ride it heh heh.
This sealing should help the exhaust flow as my guess is, that used to produce a massive shock wave in the exhaust gasses.
I've also put my little short slash cut (no DB killer) back on to see what this does again. It didn't work before I altered the air box, but now that I have, it should give me an indication as to how I can alter the gas flow & how it effects the engine.
Got a feeling this short end will put the rev band further up the range as it should be be more free flowing, but we'll see, I've got another slash cut two inches longer to try also. Otherwise it's opening the silencer & doing that to suit. Which to be honest is why I bought this Remus, well that & money heh heh.

I F****n' love this bike. Test ride this afternoon I reckon.

Really need to swot up on ECMSPY again (see if I understand it any better this time) this is going to be necessary to get this right.

My 2007 Triumph Daytona is back up for swap, damn that is a very nice bike, I miss it a lot.

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PostPosted: 10 Jul 2019 19:15 
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Joined: 05 Mar 2018 00:09
Posts: 334
Current ride: 1125 CR, XT500, 750S
Location: Tiddly village near the throbbing metropolis of Rugby
Jazzbutcher wrote:
Ok folks,
I've abandoned the velocity stack bit (purely the money aspect) for a while & now looking at the exhaust. (And avoiding doing the steering bearings).
I've re-sealed all the jointing on the pipes, Remus have a weird alloy spacer/washer to seal the jointing onto the headers that leaves a gap, I then have to knock little alloy wedges in to seal them. I've done a much better job this time & got the pipes fully fitted into their respective sleeves. Something I was guilty of not doing properly first time as it was a proper faff with those alloy seals, and, I just wanted to get the exhaust on & ride it heh heh.
This sealing should help the exhaust flow as my guess is, that used to produce a massive shock wave in the exhaust gasses.
I've also put my little short slash cut (no DB killer) back on to see what this does again. It didn't work before I altered the air box, but now that I have, it should give me an indication as to how I can alter the gas flow & how it effects the engine.
Got a feeling this short end will put the rev band further up the range as it should be be more free flowing, but we'll see, I've got another slash cut two inches longer to try also. Otherwise it's opening the silencer & doing that to suit. Which to be honest is why I bought this Remus, well that &
I F****n' love this bike. Test ride this afternoon I reckon.

Really need to swot up on ECMSPY again (see if I understand it any better this time) this is going to be necessary to get this right.

My 2007 Triumph Daytona is back up for swap, damn that is a very nice bike, I miss it a lot.


Get them bearings in you procrastinating git......no offence. :D

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PostPosted: 10 Jul 2019 20:06 
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Joined: 01 Aug 2018 19:58
Posts: 1712
Current ride: Buell 1125R
Ohsteveo wrote:
Jazzbutcher wrote:
Ok folks,
I've abandoned the velocity stack bit (purely the money aspect) for a while & now looking at the exhaust. (And avoiding doing the steering bearings).
I've re-sealed all the jointing on the pipes, Remus have a weird alloy spacer/washer to seal the jointing onto the headers that leaves a gap, I then have to knock little alloy wedges in to seal them. I've done a much better job this time & got the pipes fully fitted into their respective sleeves. Something I was guilty of not doing properly first time as it was a proper faff with those alloy seals, and, I just wanted to get the exhaust on & ride it heh heh.
This sealing should help the exhaust flow as my guess is, that used to produce a massive shock wave in the exhaust gasses.
I've also put my little short slash cut (no DB killer) back on to see what this does again. It didn't work before I altered the air box, but now that I have, it should give me an indication as to how I can alter the gas flow & how it effects the engine.
Got a feeling this short end will put the rev band further up the range as it should be be more free flowing, but we'll see, I've got another slash cut two inches longer to try also. Otherwise it's opening the silencer & doing that to suit. Which to be honest is why I bought this Remus, well that &
I F****n' love this bike. Test ride this afternoon I reckon.

Really need to swot up on ECMSPY again (see if I understand it any better this time) this is going to be necessary to get this right.

My 2007 Triumph Daytona is back up for swap, damn that is a very nice bike, I miss it a lot.


Get them bearings in you procrastinating git......no offence. :D


Still looking at how to do them.
Just wondering whether knocking them in with a 46mm socket on the outer edge will work?
Seems the ideal size to me & it looks like I could do that without removing the fairing & by dropping the bars over the side intakes with the covers off & without removing the ignition switch. More or less just drop the forks out then the yokes.
I'll keep looking at it for a while till I figure out the best way, could press the bearings in, like it shows you in the manual, but that tool they show looks overly complicated, maybe I'm missing something?

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PostPosted: 10 Jul 2019 20:42 
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Joined: 15 Apr 2009 17:17
Posts: 8629
Location: Manchester
:shut:

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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2019 17:55 
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Current ride: Buell ulysses
Location: Telford
Maz wrote:
:shut:

go on, you know you want to say something really. :couch:

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PostPosted: 12 Jul 2019 09:26 
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Joined: 01 Aug 2018 19:58
Posts: 1712
Current ride: Buell 1125R
Yeah, I know & really you can all think what you like. I don't have any cash to be honest and this 1125r has cost me well over a grand already just to get it kind of running ok & up to spec.
I'm kind of ok at getting by with the tools I have at my disposal & this unfortunately is the only way I can manage to run this Buell.
If anyone has any advice or supportive comments about what I'm about to undertake then I'm totally up for that as this is really my only option, do it myself or leave it how it is.
To be honest I'm still reeling from the cost of the stupidly under whelming, individual & very expensive Steering bearings which did make me think about my old Triumph, a lovely bike, which is again up for swap & parts cost F**k all for them. I'm still vaguely considering this option.
All the best Paul.

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PostPosted: 12 Jul 2019 20:35 
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Joined: 05 May 2009 20:00
Posts: 10851
Current ride: X1 2001
Location: southampton
if you haven't got the finances to do stuff , why not leave it as is ?
& then enjoy it .

or chop it in for the Triumph , if it's more in your cost zone.

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PostPosted: 12 Jul 2019 21:28 
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Location: Manchester
:yt: .....please get the Triumph back :twisted:

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98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
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PostPosted: 12 Jul 2019 21:35 
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Joined: 08 May 2009 13:13
Posts: 3587
Current ride: XB9SX
If the 1125 is anything like an XB, and in some ways it looks that way, then doing the head bearings properly will involve stripping off the whole front end including unplugging every electrical module, ignition barrel and cables to get at the triple clamps!
I took photos to remind me where all the bits fitted as it was the first time l had not just passed the job over to Maz (he was building up my motor ), and it was still like a Chinese puzzle (or just me ageing fast! lOl ).
I then put new bearings in the freezer to reduce them and trained a hair dryer on the frame recesses before adding copper slip to the bearing seats to ease insertion with a DIY threaded bar puller and some borrowed tractor sized sockets. ;)

Of course, l could be talking b***** and Buell may have designed in an easier and shorter way with the 1125 Helicon beast!? :?


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2019 00:01 
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Joined: 01 Aug 2018 19:58
Posts: 1712
Current ride: Buell 1125R
edd wrote:
If the 1125 is anything like an XB, and in some ways it looks that way, then doing the head bearings properly will involve stripping off the whole front end including unplugging every electrical module, ignition barrel and cables to get at the triple clamps!
I took photos to remind me where all the bits fitted as it was the first time l had not just passed the job over to Maz (he was building up my motor ), and it was still like a Chinese puzzle (or just me ageing fast! lOl ).
I then put new bearings in the freezer to reduce them and trained a hair dryer on the frame recesses before adding copper slip to the bearing seats to ease insertion with a DIY threaded bar puller and some borrowed tractor sized sockets. ;)

Of course, l could be talking b***** and Buell may have designed in an easier and shorter way with the 1125 Helicon beast!? :?


Thanks Edd,
That sounds like a pretty good set of instructions to me. Yeah I thought the socket was ok & pulling with threaded bar always works better than tapping. Nice one with the chilling & heating :yup: I'm checking round again with what you have mentioned in mind & I'll let you know if I find a shorter route (of course with pics).
I have already changed the triple clamp bolts to stainless, and had the forks out so I know I can get at them without removing anything.
Thanks again Edd, a great piece of advice. :worthy: You should have a go on my bike, I'm sure you'd love it.

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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2019 00:11 
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Joined: 01 Aug 2018 19:58
Posts: 1712
Current ride: Buell 1125R
Nutah wrote:
if you haven't got the finances to do stuff , why not leave it as is ?
& then enjoy it .

or chop it in for the Triumph , if it's more in your cost zone.


Yeah Thanks,
Can't possibly leave it as it is, ever!
I've got the bearings. Got some great advice off Edd now so I'll get on with that.
I'm going to Santa Pod & I need to get them in.
Don't want to go skittering sideways down drag track.

The Triumph? Pah! "Different in every way" it isn't, still nice though.

Thanks again. Paul.

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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2019 22:13 
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Joined: 08 May 2009 13:13
Posts: 3587
Current ride: XB9SX
If you do it yourself obviously l accept no responsibility for what l say on this site if taken as instructions as l do not know the 1125 model well, etc, etc :old:

I think the XB had cutouts in the head bearing recesses to aid tapping them out. I think l used a bearing puller to remove them (it was 4 years ago! :shock: ).

I don’t know if the 1125 has the same crap ball bearing races as the XB? If so after putting it all together and torquing down the top nut. Remember to rotate the steering from lock to lock a few times, torque down then rotate again to seat the bearings and torque down again to the set value (43 ft lbs on my XB). I did this 3 times. There should be a steering resistance pull value in the manual, but like you Paul l just wing it and go by feel! lOl


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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2019 00:03 
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Joined: 01 Aug 2018 19:58
Posts: 1712
Current ride: Buell 1125R
edd wrote:
If you do it yourself obviously l accept no responsibility for what l say on this site if taken as instructions as l do not know the 1125 model well, etc, etc :old:

I think the XB had cutouts in the head bearing recesses to aid tapping them out. I think l used a bearing puller to remove them (it was 4 years ago! :shock: ).

I don’t know if the 1125 has the same crap ball bearing races as the XB? If so after putting it all together and torquing down the top nut. Remember to rotate the steering from lock to lock a few times, torque down then rotate again to seat the bearings and torque down again to the set value (43 ft lbs on my XB). I did this 3 times. There should be a steering resistance pull value in the manual, but like you Paul l just wing it and go by feel! lOl


Thanks Edd,

You're a Star, I shall pay heed to all of that as I'm guessing they are the same very unimpressive steering bearings, that I just know are gonna be F****d up as quickly as the wheel bearings.
At least for the wheels you can get some better bearings, these steering ones just look shit before you even fit them.
I have an idea to get some decent ones though, I'll pass it on if it works out ok.
Still pretty sure I can get at everything I need to without making it a major operation, but we'll see.
I just got some Internal bearing pullers for the wheel bearings as I'll be doing them next time, so I can have a go with them on the steering head ones, or it'll be the long square section screwdriver drift heh heh.
If winging it uses all your past experience then yes I wing all of it, all the time, the manual is a good guide, not a bible.
I'll let you know how it goes Edd. Thanks again for the tips & info. All the best Paul.

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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2019 12:30 
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Joined: 08 May 2009 13:13
Posts: 3587
Current ride: XB9SX
I’m assuming that you don’t have the official workshop manual. Do you find the torque settings from other sources or experience of your previous bikes? So sorry if this is teaching granny.....but l would torque the 7 or 8mm clamp bolts into the alloy triple trees to only 18 lbs for fear of stripping the threads, not the usual 27 lbs into steel trees. ;)


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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2019 13:22 
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Joined: 05 Mar 2018 00:09
Posts: 334
Current ride: 1125 CR, XT500, 750S
Location: Tiddly village near the throbbing metropolis of Rugby
Jazzbutcher wrote:
edd wrote:
If you do it yourself obviously l accept no responsibility for what l say on this site if taken as instructions as l do not know the 1125 model well, etc, etc :old:

I think the XB had cutouts in the head bearing recesses to aid tapping them out. I think l used a bearing puller to remove them (it was 4 years ago! :shock: ).

I don’t know if the 1125 has the same crap ball bearing races as the XB? If so after putting it all together and torquing down the top nut. Remember to rotate the steering from lock to lock a few times, torque down then rotate again to seat the bearings and torque down again to the set value (43 ft lbs on my XB). I did this 3 times. There should be a steering resistance pull value in the manual, but like you Paul l just wing it and go by feel! lOl


Thanks Edd,

You're a Star, I shall pay heed to all of that as I'm guessing they are the same very unimpressive steering bearings, that I just know are gonna be F****d up as quickly as the wheel bearings.
At least for the wheels you can get some better bearings, these steering ones just look shit before you even fit them.
I have an idea to get some decent ones though, I'll pass it on if it works out ok.
Still pretty sure I can get at everything I need to without making it a major operation, but we'll see.
I just got some Internal bearing pullers for the wheel bearings as I'll be doing them next time, so I can have a go with them on the steering head ones, or it'll be the long square section screwdriver drift heh heh.
If winging it uses all your past experience then yes I wing all of it, all the time, the manual is a good guide, not a bible.
I'll let you know how it goes Edd. Thanks again for the tips & info. All the best Paul.

JB...I have a good set of bearing pullers should you want them...

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